Summary of You'll NEVER Full Crimp Again After Watching This - Open Hand vs Crimp Technique for Climbing
The video discusses a study on finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during climbing, focusing on the difference between crimped and open-handed positions. The study shows that switching from a crimped to an open-handed position can significantly reduce stress on the A2 and A4 pulleys, with the A2 pulley being reduced by 36 times and the A4 pulley by 4 times. The study involved six expert climbers, with findings showing lower forces in the open-handed grip compared to the crimp grip. The conclusion suggests practicing the open-handed grip to reduce the risk of injuries. The video emphasizes the importance of understanding and applying the study findings to climbing techniques to prevent injuries.
Presenters/Sources
- Bryan (presenter)
- Study on finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during climbing (source)
Notable Quotes
— 01:09 — « this study has shown that crimping which is like closing your hand really tight, you can reduce the stress on your A2 pulley by going from this motion to this motion by on average 36 times »
— 01:54 — « if we want to be injury free climbers we might want to think about doing »
— 10:59 — « to reduce the forces on your pulley if youre getting tweaks if youve had injuries in the past try to reduce closing your hand while crimping try to practice that open handed grip that slope and grip and try to get that stronger in your climbing »
Category
Sport