You'll NEVER Full Crimp Again After Watching This - Open Hand vs Crimp Technique for Climbing

The video discusses a study on finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during climbing, focusing on the difference between crimped and open-handed positions. The study shows that switching from a crimped to an open-handed position can significantly reduce stress on the A2 and A4 pulleys, with the A2 pulley being reduced by 36 times and the A4 pulley by 4 times. The study involved six expert climbers, with findings showing lower forces in the open-handed grip compared to the crimp grip. The conclusion suggests practicing the open-handed grip to reduce the risk of injuries. The video emphasizes the importance of understanding and applying the study findings to climbing techniques to prevent injuries.

Presenters/Sources

• Bryan (presenter)
• Study on finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during climbing (source)