Kitbashing and Converting - STOP DOING THIS :Þ

Brief summary

The video is a short tutorial on improving kitbashing and miniature conversions using epoxy putty (Milliput) and appropriately sized sculpting tools. It focuses on filling gaps, blending joins, and re-sculpting details (cloaks, fur, bellows joints, etc.) after cutting and repositioning parts.

Artistic techniques, concepts and creative processes

• Gap filling and blending seams between joined parts.
• Resculpting damaged or missing features after cutting/repositioning, including:
  • Hands, cloaks, loincloths
  • Bellows/joint armor
• Building small volumes and integrating anatomical detail (muscles, eye sockets, rivets).
• Texturing techniques:
  • Fur texture using needle tools
  • Carving negative space (eye sockets, rivets) with ball tools
• Working at 28 mm scale — match tool size to the miniature for speed and detail.
• Using Milliput’s working stages:
  • Fresh Milliput for very sharp detail
  • Rested Milliput for a softer, green-stuff–like consistency that’s easier to manipulate
• Sanding cured Milliput for a very smooth finish if seams aren’t perfectly blended while wet

Core recommendation: use the right small tools and Milliput for fine grain, easier blending, and cleaner sanding — especially useful for beginners.

Materials and tools

• Milliput (epoxy putty, Standard) — fine grain, easy blending and sanding (recommended).
• Green Stuff (epoxy putty) — usable but grainier and harder to blend; less beginner-friendly.
• Small metal file or homemade brass rod sculpting tool (filed to a sharp edge) — workhorse for cutting, carving, and creating sharp edges.
• Color Shaper (extra firm, size 0, angled chisel shape recommended) — flexible for smoothing, adapting to curves, and forming inverted edges/small details.
• Needle tool(s) — for fine lines, fur texture, and very small details.
• Ball tools — for texturing and carving negative spaces like eye sockets and rivets.
• Sandpaper — for smoothing cured Milliput.
• Water and brushes — for smoothing Milliput while working (no need for petroleum jelly).

Practical advice / workflow tips

• Use tools sized and shaped for miniatures — large blunt multipacks are often too big and slow you down.
• Prefer flexible tools (e.g., Color Shaper) for blending on curved surfaces; they conform and press putty into recesses evenly.
• Use rigid metal tools for cutting and creating sharp edges, but avoid them for smoothing across curves.
• Use needle tools for fine detail lines and textures rather than blunt spatulas.
• Choose Milliput over Green Stuff if you want easier blending, finer details, quicker sanding, and more forgiving handling — especially as a beginner.
• Let Milliput rest if you want a softer, green-stuff–like feel; work it fresh for very sharp detail.
• If seams or bits aren’t perfectly blended while wet, sand Milliput after curing to achieve a smooth finish.
• Don’t add unnecessary difficulty by using the wrong tools or materials when learning detailed sculpting.

Creators / contributors featured

• The video’s presenter (channel creator / “fellow pigment pushers”)
• Jazza (referenced and used as illustrative footage)