วิธีการเช็คซ่อมสว่านแบตเตอรี่ ไฟเข้าแต่ไม่หมุน วิเคราะห์หาสาเหตุอาการเสีย

Video

• Title: วิธีการเช็คซ่อมสว่านแบตเตอรี่ ไฟเข้าแต่ไม่หมุน วิเคราะห์หาสาเหตุอาการเสีย
• Channel: Two Lions Modify

Concise summary / verdict

• The drill was repaired by replacing a failed motor. Main lesson: when a cordless drill’s LED/power indicator lights but the chuck won’t turn, first check the battery voltage and then inspect the motor and gearbox.
• If the motor shows unstable resistance, physical heat damage, or sparks on direct connection, replace the motor with one matching the drill’s operating voltage (here ≈16.8 V).
• Recommendation: follow the diagnostic steps shown (multimeter battery check → disassembly → motor resistance test → direct motor test) before buying a new battery or charger. Beware of misleading battery labeling and nonstandard fasteners; document disassembly to facilitate correct reassembly.

Product reviewed

• Consumer cordless drill (sold/labelled with confusing specs).
• Battery pack marketed as “38V” but internally contains four 18650 cells in series → actual nominal voltage ≈16 V (measured ≈16.15 V).
• Motor spec shown/used: DC 16–16.8 V.

Main features and facts

• Removable battery pack and LED/power indicator.
• Battery pack: 4 × 18650 cells in series (nominal ~3.7 V each → pack ~14.8–16.8 V fully charged).
• Motor: ~16.8 V DC.
• Special star-shaped / Torx-like recessed screws — need the correct bit.
• Gearbox located between chuck and motor; gears can come loose during disassembly.
• Replacement motor ordered online (from China), ~2 weeks shipping; matched 16.8 V spec and worked well.

Symptom shown

• Battery was charged and LED/power indicator lit when switch pressed, but the drill did not rotate (no torque at chuck).
• Initial inspection produced noises but no useful rotation; later found the motor electrically/physically damaged.

Diagnostics performed (step-by-step)

1. Measured battery voltage with a multimeter: ~16.1–16.2 V (battery OK).
2. Checked charger output (example reading ≈17.7 V) — further evidence battery and charger did not match the misleading 38V label.
3. Opened drill carefully (remove special screws, keep photos/parts) and exposed motor and gears.
4. Measured motor resistance at terminals — readings unstable, high/erratic (examples: unstable ~200 Ω, another reading 28 Ω) indicating motor fault.
5. Visually inspected motor internals — fan/rotor warped, signs of overheating.
6. Directly applied battery to motor (with clips) → observed sparks and motor would not run → motor shorted/failed.
7. Ordered and installed a replacement motor matching 16.8 V, soldered wires, reinstalled gears, reassembled housing, tested drill → successful, powerful operation.

Pros (from repair outcome)

• Correct-spec replacement motor restored powerful performance.
• Battery cells remained intact and reusable — repair avoided replacing the whole battery/pack.

Cons / issues discovered

• Misleading marketing/specification: battery labeled “38V” while actual pack ≈16 V.
• Motor failure (short/overheat) — likely poor motor quality or overload.
• Nonstandard recessed screws require correct tools.
• Gear pieces and small parts can fall out during disassembly — risk of losing pieces or misassembly.
• Sparking on direct connection indicates internal short — hazardous if not handled carefully.

Tools / parts used or recommended

• Digital multimeter (DC voltage and resistance).
• Correct star/Torx / special wrench bits for recessed screws.
• Flathead screwdriver for clips.
• Camera/phone to document disassembly.
• Soldering iron for motor wire connections.
• Replacement motor matching original voltage/spec (16.8 V DC in this case).
• Alligator clips for temporary direct motor testing (use carefully).

Practical tips & warnings

• Always check battery voltage first — battery may be fine despite misleading labeling.
• Take photos/notes during disassembly; keep screws and gears organized.
• Remove parts slowly and carefully — gears can fall out and lose orientation.

  • Use the correct driver/wrench for special fasteners to avoid stripping.
  • When testing a motor directly, expect sparks if shorted — be cautious.

• Match replacement motor to original motor voltage and connector arrangement.
• Ensure proper alignment when reinstalling gear set and locking clips.
• Double-check battery terminal polarity when reconnecting.

Comparisons / notable calls-out

• Presenter contrasts advertised battery voltage (38V) with actual internal configuration (4 × 18650 = ≈16 V), calling the higher label suspicious/misleading.
• No side-by-side brand comparisons; comparison is primarily “advertised spec vs. actual construction.”

Numerical measurements / readings mentioned

• Battery measured: ≈16.15–16.2 V.
• Charger reading example: ≈17.7 V.
• Motor spec: 16.8 V DC.
• Erratic motor resistance readings (examples: ~200 Ω unstable; 28 Ω at one point).
• Replacement motor shipping time: ≈2 weeks (from China).

Unique points summarized

• Battery pack labeled “38V” but internally 4 × 18650 → actual ≈16 V.
• Motor internals showed heat distortion/warped fan and produced sparks on direct connection → shorted motor.
• Special recessed star screws require specific bit; soldering required for replacement motor wiring.
• Gear set and locking clips require careful alignment during reassembly.
• Presenter strongly recommends methodical disassembly and patience; don’t rush.

Speakers / viewpoints

• Single presenter: Two Lions Modify. No other speakers or differing views.

Final concise recommendation

If a cordless drill shows power (LED on) but won’t turn:

1. Measure battery voltage first.
2. If the battery voltage matches expected cell voltage (≈16 V here) and the motor shows unstable resistance, overheating, or sparks on direct power, replace the motor with a correctly specified unit (≈16.8 V in this case).
3. Disassemble carefully, use the correct bits for special screws, document the process, and ensure gears and clips are reinstalled in their original positions.
4. Be wary of misleading voltage labeling on inexpensive packs.