Summary of "Did I Destroy My Subaru? 5,000 Mile Update (Transmission Flush)"
Product reviewed / vehicle context
The video is a long-term update/review of a 2009 Subaru Forester (bought for $300). The creator rebuilt/maintained it on a budget—including a transmission flush—to see whether it could keep running after heavy neglect/problems.
Key performance & ownership update (user experience)
After about 3 months of heavy use (including nonstop driving while it was the creator’s only car), the Subaru is reported to be:
- Driving smoothly
- Shifting smoothly
- No engine issues
- No transmission issues
- No check engine lights
- Only an electrical warning: TPMS light (not addressed)
A previous shuddering issue (that happened when they first got the car and/or around the time of the transmission flush) is described as resolved:
“It’s been great since that.”
A quick performance check includes a 0–60 pull, with the creator stating:
“It can still do that.” (No time/duration is provided.)
Main maintenance / actions performed (what they tested)
Engine work / reseal
- Engine reseal / major work (timing components, sensors, etc.)
Transmission service
- Transmission flush
- Pan removed for inspection again after further miles
- Filter checked and new ATF added (about 12+ quarts)
Additive tested
- “Snake oil” additive used: Cataclean
- Audience reaction is described as mixed (“rants and raves”)
- Creator reports success:
- No converter codes
- No check engine lights
- Works “about 3 to maybe 4,000 miles” after use
Planned maintenance
- An oil change was due around this mileage and is performed as part of the update.
Inspection findings (pros/cons from what they found)
Pros
- Topside inspection: fluids full; underside described as dry overall
- Gaskets/seal areas: head gasket areas and valve cover area described as looking good, with no obvious dripping from major seals
- Transmission pan/filter inspection after miles:
- Overall good condition
- Magnet shows only small debris at most
- No big shiny bits / shavings / chunks reported
- Filter screen “looks really good,” not clogged like before
- Bottom of pan described as mostly fluid with limited collected residue
Potential concerns / cons
-
Possible minor seal seepage: A “cup seal” on the cam area may be seeping slightly (hard to tell), with residual oil noticed.
-
Transmission cooler line drip: A drip near a cooler line/hose/clamp; could be a simple clamp/hose tension issue.
-
Cheap axle shafts rust quickly: The axles used were low-cost and show significant rust after ~3 months, especially on driver/passenger sides and around knuckle areas. The creator believes they should have been protected/painted.
-
Comfort & fuel economy (ongoing ownership complaint):
- Biggest pet peeve: seat comfort (“horrible”)
- Fuel economy is poor
Cost / value breakdown (numerical details)
Parts and materials spent (excluding time):
- Engine reseal + related maintenance: $557 (after tax/title/license)
- Suspension: about $200 in parts
- Axles: $85 each → $170 total
- Lower ball joints: $30
- Transmission service:
- ATF: about $100-ish
- Filter: $20
- Misc RTV/disposables and other small items: additional $65–$70
Grand total (rounded): $1,150 (parts/materials) Including purchase price: ~$1,500 total (they mention registration/repairs and that it may not include their time cost)
Comparisons / alternatives discussed
- No direct comparison to other specific models/makes.
- The comparison is more conceptual:
- DIY passion/project approach vs.
- Shop repair
- The creator argues paying labor would likely make it uneconomical (“labor costs would bury you”).
Verdict / overall recommendation (based on the creator’s conclusion)
- DIY owner verdict: If you like to tinker and accept the gamble/project nature, buying a cheap worn vehicle and doing maintenance/testing can be worth it, especially versus shop labor.
- Practical shopping verdict: For most people, this approach is not worth it, because labor cost makes it uneconomical.
- Since the car is still running with no check engine lights after significant work and mileage, the overall message is:
It’s working “pretty darn good,” but they’re not finished and plan further upgrades and durability testing.
Unique points mentioned (consolidated)
- 2009 Subaru Forester bought for $300; extensive repairs done.
- Mileage at update: ~182,000 miles (oil change due).
- Drives perfectly/smoothly; shifting smooth.
- No engine or transmission issues; no check engine lights.
- Only warning: TPMS light.
- Transmission flush helped resolve prior shuddering.
- Cataclean used; creator reports success for 3–4k miles with no converter codes.
- Biggest complaints: seat comfort and poor gas mileage.
- AWD described as excellent in snow, avoiding getting stuck even on plain tires.
- Underside largely dry; gaskets look good; possible cam seal seepage.
- Small drip near transmission cooler line area—possibly clamp/hose tension.
- Cheap axles rust heavily after ~3 months (multiple sides).
- Oil described as dark but no sparkly debris; filter dirty but no shiny bits; sludge present.
- Transmission pan inspection: minimal/no dangerous debris; filter not plugged.
- Cost breakdown: $1,150 (rounded parts/materials) + $300 purchase → ~$1,500 total.
- Value assessment: worthwhile only for DIY tinkerers; not worth paying a shop.
- Plans for future upgrades and durability testing.
Speaker breakdown
- Only one main speaker: the creator.
- No other distinct voices contribute separate viewpoints in the provided subtitles.
Category
Product Review
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