Did I Destroy My Subaru? 5,000 Mile Update (Transmission Flush)

Product reviewed / vehicle context

The video is a long-term update/review of a 2009 Subaru Forester (bought for $300). The creator rebuilt/maintained it on a budget—including a transmission flush—to see whether it could keep running after heavy neglect/problems.

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Key performance & ownership update (user experience)

After about 3 months of heavy use (including nonstop driving while it was the creator’s only car), the Subaru is reported to be:

• Driving smoothly
• Shifting smoothly
• No engine issues
• No transmission issues
• No check engine lights
• Only an electrical warning: TPMS light (not addressed)

A previous shuddering issue (that happened when they first got the car and/or around the time of the transmission flush) is described as resolved:

“It’s been great since that.”

A quick performance check includes a 0–60 pull, with the creator stating:

“It can still do that.” (No time/duration is provided.)

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Main maintenance / actions performed (what they tested)

Engine work / reseal

• Engine reseal / major work (timing components, sensors, etc.)

Transmission service

• Transmission flush
• Pan removed for inspection again after further miles
• Filter checked and new ATF added (about 12+ quarts)

Additive tested

• “Snake oil” additive used: Cataclean
• Audience reaction is described as mixed (“rants and raves”)
• Creator reports success:
  • No converter codes
  • No check engine lights
  • Works “about 3 to maybe 4,000 miles” after use

Planned maintenance

• An oil change was due around this mileage and is performed as part of the update.

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Inspection findings (pros/cons from what they found)

Pros

• Topside inspection: fluids full; underside described as dry overall
• Gaskets/seal areas: head gasket areas and valve cover area described as looking good, with no obvious dripping from major seals
• Transmission pan/filter inspection after miles:
  • Overall good condition
  • Magnet shows only small debris at most
  • No big shiny bits / shavings / chunks reported
  • Filter screen “looks really good,” not clogged like before
  • Bottom of pan described as mostly fluid with limited collected residue

Potential concerns / cons

• Possible minor seal seepage: A “cup seal” on the cam area may be seeping slightly (hard to tell), with residual oil noticed.

• Transmission cooler line drip: A drip near a cooler line/hose/clamp; could be a simple clamp/hose tension issue.

• Cheap axle shafts rust quickly: The axles used were low-cost and show significant rust after ~3 months, especially on driver/passenger sides and around knuckle areas. The creator believes they should have been protected/painted.

• Comfort & fuel economy (ongoing ownership complaint):

  • Biggest pet peeve: seat comfort (“horrible”)
  • Fuel economy is poor

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Cost / value breakdown (numerical details)

Parts and materials spent (excluding time):

• Engine reseal + related maintenance: $557 (after tax/title/license)
• Suspension: about $200 in parts
  • Axles: $85 each → $170 total
  • Lower ball joints: $30
• Transmission service:
  • ATF: about $100-ish
  • Filter: $20
  • Misc RTV/disposables and other small items: additional $65–$70

Grand total (rounded): $1,150 (parts/materials) Including purchase price: ~$1,500 total (they mention registration/repairs and that it may not include their time cost)

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Comparisons / alternatives discussed

• No direct comparison to other specific models/makes.
• The comparison is more conceptual:
  • DIY passion/project approach vs.
  • Shop repair
• The creator argues paying labor would likely make it uneconomical (“labor costs would bury you”).

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Verdict / overall recommendation (based on the creator’s conclusion)

• DIY owner verdict: If you like to tinker and accept the gamble/project nature, buying a cheap worn vehicle and doing maintenance/testing can be worth it, especially versus shop labor.
• Practical shopping verdict: For most people, this approach is not worth it, because labor cost makes it uneconomical.
• Since the car is still running with no check engine lights after significant work and mileage, the overall message is:

It’s working “pretty darn good,” but they’re not finished and plan further upgrades and durability testing.

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Unique points mentioned (consolidated)

1. 2009 Subaru Forester bought for $300; extensive repairs done.
2. Mileage at update: ~182,000 miles (oil change due).
3. Drives perfectly/smoothly; shifting smooth.
4. No engine or transmission issues; no check engine lights.
5. Only warning: TPMS light.
6. Transmission flush helped resolve prior shuddering.
7. Cataclean used; creator reports success for 3–4k miles with no converter codes.
8. Biggest complaints: seat comfort and poor gas mileage.
9. AWD described as excellent in snow, avoiding getting stuck even on plain tires.
10. Underside largely dry; gaskets look good; possible cam seal seepage.
11. Small drip near transmission cooler line area—possibly clamp/hose tension.
12. Cheap axles rust heavily after ~3 months (multiple sides).
13. Oil described as dark but no sparkly debris; filter dirty but no shiny bits; sludge present.
14. Transmission pan inspection: minimal/no dangerous debris; filter not plugged.
15. Cost breakdown: $1,150 (rounded parts/materials) + $300 purchase → ~$1,500 total.
16. Value assessment: worthwhile only for DIY tinkerers; not worth paying a shop.
17. Plans for future upgrades and durability testing.

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Speaker breakdown

• Only one main speaker: the creator.
• No other distinct voices contribute separate viewpoints in the provided subtitles.