Summary of The Armoury in Japan - The Tailor Blending Naples and Tokyo
The video features Noriyuki Ueki, a renowned Japanese tailor blending Neapolitan and Japanese tailoring styles at The Armoury. Key points include:
- Career Path:
- Started at Ring Jacket in Japan at age 21.
- Studied tailoring in Naples under Luigi Dalcuore and Antonio Pascariello.
- Returned to Japan in 2008, worked with Tie Your Tie for 8 years.
- Opened his own atelier, Ciccio, in 2015.
- Has collaborated with The Armoury since around 2013.
- Tailoring Philosophy and Style:
- Inspired by the soft yet structured silhouette of Neapolitan tailoring.
- Values the balance of softness and beautiful silhouette in garments.
- Maintains core principles learned in Naples but makes continual small improvements.
- Style described as classic with a laid-back touch.
- Signature pieces include raglan sleeve coats and unlined, unstructured jackets.
- Fabric and Garment Preferences:
- Uses a mix of personal fabric stock and fabric books (about 50/50).
- Prefers cloth with a supple, velvety texture suitable for tailoring (e.g., Dobcross, Dormeuil).
- Currently makes more suits than sport coats, a reversal of general trends.
- Suits are often for social occasions rather than business.
- Innovations and Trends:
- Developing casual yet elegant garments while preserving traditional tailoring roots.
- Created unlined, double-faced fabric jackets and suits ideal for Japan’s humid summers.
- Focus on lightweight, breathable materials without lining for comfort.
- Believes bespoke tailoring will become more niche but remain relevant.
- Life Lesson:
- Emphasizes daily learning and giving his utmost effort to each garment.
Notable Locations and People:
- Naples, Italy (tailoring study)
- Ring Jacket (Japan)
- Tie Your Tie (Japan)
- The Armoury (collaboration)
- Luigi Dalcuore and Antonio Pascariello (mentors)
- Fabrics: Dobcross, Dormeuil, Drapers
This interview highlights the fusion of Italian and Japanese tailoring traditions, a commitment to craftsmanship, and adapting classic tailoring to modern lifestyles and climates.
Notable Quotes
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Category
Lifestyle