The Armoury in Japan - The Tailor Blending Naples and Tokyo

The video features Noriyuki Ueki, a renowned Japanese tailor blending Neapolitan and Japanese tailoring styles at The Armoury. Key points include:

• Career Path:
  • Started at Ring Jacket in Japan at age 21.
  • Studied tailoring in Naples under Luigi Dalcuore and Antonio Pascariello.
  • Returned to Japan in 2008, worked with Tie Your Tie for 8 years.
  • Opened his own atelier, Ciccio, in 2015.
  • Has collaborated with The Armoury since around 2013.
• Tailoring Philosophy and Style:
  • Inspired by the soft yet structured silhouette of Neapolitan tailoring.
  • Values the balance of softness and beautiful silhouette in garments.
  • Maintains core principles learned in Naples but makes continual small improvements.
  • Style described as classic with a laid-back touch.
  • Signature pieces include raglan sleeve coats and unlined, unstructured jackets.
• Fabric and Garment Preferences:
  • Uses a mix of personal fabric stock and fabric books (about 50/50).
  • Prefers cloth with a supple, velvety texture suitable for tailoring (e.g., Dobcross, Dormeuil).
  • Currently makes more suits than sport coats, a reversal of general trends.
  • Suits are often for social occasions rather than business.
• Innovations and Trends:
  • Developing casual yet elegant garments while preserving traditional tailoring roots.
  • Created unlined, double-faced fabric jackets and suits ideal for Japan’s humid summers.
  • Focus on lightweight, breathable materials without lining for comfort.
  • Believes bespoke tailoring will become more niche but remain relevant.
• Life Lesson:
  • Emphasizes daily learning and giving his utmost effort to each garment.

Notable Locations and People:

• Naples, Italy (tailoring study)
• Ring Jacket (Japan)
• Tie Your Tie (Japan)
• The Armoury (collaboration)
• Luigi Dalcuore and Antonio Pascariello (mentors)
• Fabrics: Dobcross, Dormeuil, Drapers

This interview highlights the fusion of Italian and Japanese tailoring traditions, a commitment to craftsmanship, and adapting classic tailoring to modern lifestyles and climates.