Portugal's avocados: Green gold or ecological nightmare? | DW Documentary

Portugal’s Expanding Avocado Industry

The documentary examines whether Portugal’s growing avocado industry is a profitable crop or a threat to water supplies and ecosystems in the drought-prone Algarve.

As European demand rises, avocado farms are expanding across southern Portugal. The crop can offer roughly four times the profit margin of traditional oranges and lemons. Growers also argue that producing avocados locally reduces the carbon footprint compared with shipping them from South America.

One grower says his farm uses dam water rather than groundwater, relies on computer-controlled irrigation, and limits herbicide use.

Water and Environmental Concerns

Residents and environmental activists worry that large monoculture plantations will intensify water shortages. They say avocado trees need around 50–60 litres of water per day and estimate that two plantations could use millions of litres daily.

Matthew Ambrose and his partner, Miro Paixao, fear that a plantation’s licensed boreholes could lower the aquifer that feeds a spring essential to their guesthouse. A nearby smallholder has already stopped growing crops because he believes his water level is falling. The documentary also shows a severely depleted reservoir amid repeated dry years and competition among farmers for water.

Activists question whether plantations are adequately monitored. A water-agency official acknowledges that authorities cannot always track water usage, partly because some plantations lack meters. The official also points to a legal loophole that allows landowners to build without permission. Although the film notes that fines have been imposed for violations, it suggests that enforcement remains a concern.

Tests commissioned by activists found glyphosates and other herbicides in samples collected near a plantation. The group says the results will support its legal challenge to further development. The plantation’s license is under review.

Working Conditions

The report also raises concerns about working conditions. Farms rely heavily on migrant labor from countries including Bangladesh, Nepal, and India. One worker describes uncertainty and hardship, while the film reports that some temporary-agency workers have few rights and may lose a large share of their pay to intermediaries.

A plantation manager argues that workers benefit from the jobs and says some return after visiting home.

Alternatives to Monoculture

In the village of Barão de São João, small farmers describe permaculture and mixed planting as alternatives to industrial monoculture. They use fewer chemicals, protect the soil, and cultivate varieties intended to thrive with less water.

These approaches may initially produce lower yields and require more labor, potentially making avocados more expensive. Their proponents, however, see them as more sustainable over time.

The Wider Conflict

The documentary closes on the conflict between short-term profits and the long-term demands of water, soil, and climate resilience. Local residents and activists are challenging plantation expansion, though some Portuguese residents are reluctant to protest because they expect bureaucracy and confrontation.

Presenters and Contributors

Matthew Ambrose, Miro Paixao, Annette Klasen, Eileen Gruschka, Claudia Sil, Joaquim (smallholder), Hugo Melita, Pedro Coelho, Florian, and Michael are featured. The narrator is not identified.