Video summary

17 Things You Should NEVER Do Charging An EV

Main summary

Key takeaways

Technology

Key technological concepts & charging guidance (“17 mistakes”)

  • Don’t ignore the EV charging curve: Advertised peak charging power (e.g., 150–300 kW) is not sustained. It ramps briefly, then drops sharply near ~60–80% state of charge. Rapid charging to 100% is especially inefficient and typically slower.
  • Don’t coil/strap cables while charging (home): Cables get warm when current flows for hours. Keep them laid out (not coiled, not trapped under doors, etc.).
  • Don’t leave the car sitting at 100% for long periods (home): Charging to 100% occasionally is fine, but hours/days overnight or extended stays increase battery stress (described via a rubber-band analogy). Use scheduling so the car reaches 100% just before departure.
  • Don’t charge to 100% at public rapid chargers unless necessary: The last 20% (80–100%) can be disproportionately slow, so you pay premium public rates while getting less benefit—often better to leave at ~80%.
  • Don’t overstay at public chargers: When charging completes, move the car to avoid idle fees/overstay rules and keep chargers available for others (compared to not leaving a petrol pump occupied).
  • Don’t unplug someone else’s charger: Even if an app shows availability or you think CCTV/locking mechanisms confirm it’s safe—it’s another person’s property and may also be mechanically locked.
  • Don’t yank connectors out: Chargers/cars rely on communications and locking pins. Proper process:

    1. Stop via the app/charger
    2. Unlock the car
    3. Wait for the connector to release
    4. Then unplug If it won’t come out, re-check lock/unlock or use an emergency release.
  • Don’t ignore home electricity tariffs: The biggest money mistake is charging on standard rates instead of EV/off-peak tariffs. Use car/charger scheduling so charging happens during cheaper windows (example claim: could be ~¼ price).

  • Don’t rely on only one public charging payment/app: Contactless works, but some networks offer lower pricing via apps/memberships, and apps can fail. Keep backup apps/payment.
    • Tools/resources mentioned: Zap-Map (large charger database) and Electroverse (Octopus) (pay across providers).
    • Some brands (e.g., Tesla) may require their own app for best pricing.
  • Don’t assume every public charger is fast: Charger output ranges widely (e.g., 7 kW to hundreds of kW).
    • “Destination” chargers (like ~7 kW) are for longer stops.
    • Ultra-rapid (e.g., ~350–400 kW) is intended for cars with 800V systems.
  • Don’t assume your car can take the charger’s max power: Charger max power ≠ car max acceptance. The vehicle battery management decides acceptance based on:
    • battery %,
    • battery temperature,
    • charger power/cable/voltage system,
    • power sharing with other cars,
    • and real-time conditions.
  • Don’t ignore battery preconditioning: Cold (or hot) battery temperatures can reduce charge speed. Preconditioning warms/cools the battery for optimal rapid charging and may be automatic via navigation or manual.
  • Don’t repeatedly rapid charge a hot battery (especially older EVs): Heat stresses batteries. Rapid charging right after fast driving repeatedly can degrade battery faster. Modern thermal management helps, but older EVs may slow charging for protection.
  • Don’t forget your charging cable: Many destination locations use untethered 7 kW chargers (no cable included), so you may need to bring a Type 2 cable.
  • Don’t park in EV bays if you’re not charging (“icing”): Occupying a charging bay without actively charging blocks others. Move to normal parking afterward (limited exceptions like a broken charger).
  • Don’t ignore pricing differences between chargers: Prices vary widely. For long trips, small per‑kWh differences add up. Choose based on price + time + nearby availability, and consider slower chargers if you’ll be parked longer.
  • Don’t buy an EV without checking charging speed: Range alone isn’t enough—compare DC fast charging speed (and also AC charging speed) and connector type. Older EVs (e.g., Nissan Leaf) may be capped (e.g., ~50 kW), while newer 800V cars can add range much faster.
    • Suggested checklist: charging speed (AC/DC), range, insurance/tax, connector type.
    • Mentioned tool: EV Database.

Bonus mistakes (cable care & safety)

  • Don’t let cables sit in mud/water: Even if rated/weather-resistant, prolonged exposure to grit and water can eventually introduce contaminants. Keep connectors clean.
  • Don’t use damaged public cables: If a cable/connector looks damaged, don’t plug in—report it via the app/network and use another charger/cable.

Main speakers / sources

  • Primary speaker: An automotive engineer and long-term EV owner (single narrator/host).
  • Referenced/used sources (tools/brands/apps): Zap-Map, Electroverse (Octopus), EV Database; brands/networks referenced include Tesla, EDF; “Octopus” mentioned for the Electroverse app.

Original video