From Sketch to Production - The Production Process in the Garment Industry

Summary

The video explains how a fashion garment moves from an initial collection plan to samples that can be presented to retail buyers. A technical flat sketch is a key communication tool throughout this process, helping the design, development, pattern-making, and factory teams understand what garment to make and how to refine it.

Product Creation Process

1. Research and collection planning — merchandiser

   • A product manager, category manager, or merchandiser reviews past sales, including which styles and colorways performed well.
   • They research competitors and market trends, considering garment features or unique selling propositions (USPs), fabrics, colors, silhouettes, fit, and price.
   • Based on this research, they decide what the collection needs: its styles, important features, and target price points.
   • They prepare a brief, often containing written direction and reference images, and share it with the designer and relevant development team members.

2. Designing to the brief — designer

   • The designer develops styles that meet the brief’s design requirements and target pricing.
   • They create a technical garment sketch and may add information needed to explain the design.
   • The materials team may begin developing or sourcing suitable fabrics and components.

3. Early costing and feasibility — product developer and materials developer

   • The product developer may do preliminary costing to check whether the design can meet its target price.
   • They also handle or clarify garment construction and workmanship details.
   • The materials developer works on sourcing or developing materials that fit the design and price requirements.

4. Design handover and technical review — product developer and pattern maker or technical designer

   • The designer hands over the sketch and related information to the product developer and pattern maker or technical designer.
   • A Tech Pack accompanies the sketch. It can include:
     • The technical garment sketch
     • A Bill of Materials (BOM), sometimes called a cutter’s must
     • A measurement chart or garment specification
     • Construction, workmanship, and other style details
   • The product developer clarifies construction questions, while the pattern maker or technical designer addresses pattern and measurement questions.
   • The team checks that the design is feasible and that the front and back views, design lines, and garment proportions are consistent and workable.
   • Depending on the company, the pattern maker or technical designer may create the pattern or provide specifications for the factory to make it.

5. Factory prototyping and fitting

   • The product developer and pattern maker or technical designer send the information to the garment factory.
   • The factory makes a first prototype, often called Proto 1, and sends it back to the brand.
   • The designer, product developer, and pattern maker or technical designer fit and review the sample.
   • They communicate requested changes to the factory, which makes another version, such as Proto 2. Further prototypes may be needed.

6. Approval and sales or production samples

   • The next stage may be a salesman sample, a pre-production sample, or a production sample.
   • The exact sequence varies: some companies require several prototypes, while others move quickly from an initial prototype to sales or pre-production samples.
   • Salesman samples may be made in one or two colors for each style. Sales representatives then show the collection to retail buyers.
   • Retail buyers assess the collection and decide how the styles fit their stores and merchandising plans.

Key Lessons

• The technical sketch is not just an illustration; it is a practical reference for communicating a garment’s design throughout development.
• The process relies on collaboration among merchandising, design, product development, materials, pattern-making or technical design, and factory teams.
• Price, materials, construction, measurements, and design intent all need to align for a garment to be viable.
• The workflow varies by company. The number and type of sample stages can differ by brand, product category, and business model.

Speaker Featured

• Gina Renee — presenter and fashion design and pattern-making instructor.