Video summary

КАК ПОМЫТЬ АВТО В ТРИ ФАЗЫ

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Lifestyle

Summary of the video (three-phase / three-stage car wash theory)

What the video is about

  • Explains the theory of washing a car in three stages (three phases), with a focus on pH-based chemistry.
  • Intended as a “cheat sheet” for people who only see practice at self-wash stations and don’t understand the logic behind it.

The “three phases” of a proper car wash

1) Phase 1 — Contactless pre-wash (foam)

  • Contactless: no scrubbing with sponges/mitts/mops during this phase.
  • Uses touchless (self-wash) shampoos, described as:
    • Alkaline (mainly for self-washes)
    • Sometimes “delicate” for lighter dirt / protective-coating cars

pH guidance discussed:

  • pH 6 = neutral (example: water)
  • 0 to 5.9 = acidic
  • 6.1 to 14 = alkaline
  • Alkaline compositions mentioned as pH > 9
  • “Delicate” / mild shampoos described as up to pH 9

Warning:

  • If alkali is too high (example given: above pH 12), it can damage chrome, moldings, and rubber parts.

2) Phase 2 — Contact wash (neutralization + removal of “static” contaminants)

Core goals:

  • Neutralize the alkaline film left from Phase 1.
  • Remove static contaminants (described as dirt/soot/organic residues that may look like “nothing,” but still remain and need contact/hand cleaning).

What Phase 2 uses (by pH / shampoo type):

  • Acid shampoos (referenced as being on the acidic side of the scale)
  • Neutral shampoos
  • Neutral + hydrophobic/hydrophilic effect (for water beading/flow effects)

Phase 2 types (as stated):

  • Acid
  • Neutral
  • Neutral with hydrophobic or hydrophilic effect
    • Effects described as water flowing off like a “curtain” / water beading
    • Speaker’s note: these effects are short-lived and don’t replace real protection

Neutral vs acid (cost + benefits):

  • Acid shampoos are about 2× more expensive than neutral ones (example: ~250 rub/L vs ~500 rub/L).
  • Main argument:
    • Overpaying is not always necessary, but acid shampoo provides extra benefits, especially:
      • Removal of limescale from hard water and salts

Important practical logic:

  • If you do Phase 1 with alkali, then use Phase 2 properly:
    • alkali + acid (or neutral) helps prevent paint damage.
  • The “result” is washed off with water; neutralization happens chemically as described.

Phase 3 — Apply protective coating (protection for the paint/body)

Purpose:

  • Apply protective coatings to protect the body after washing.

1) Liquid waxes (self-wash “last program/button”)

  • Applied on the wet body by spraying, rinsed off using osmosis water.
  • Caveats:
    • Longevity is limited—Phase 1 alkali can cause wax to peel off.
    • Best practice in the video: use waxes with neutral shampoo in Phase 2.

2) Hard waxes (detailing store products)

  • Applied by hand:
    1. Wash the car in two phases first
    2. Dry fully with a microfiber towel
    3. Apply a small amount to one element at a time (e.g., door, wing, hood)
    4. Spread with circular movements
    5. Buff to shine with a soft microfiber/plush towel

Restrictions mentioned:

  • Don’t apply to windows
  • Avoid unpainted / certain plastics (speaker mentions black textured plastic and unpainted plastic specifics)
  • Applying is okay for painted bumper
    • Mud flaps/mudguard plastics noted as often unpainted

Longevity:

  • Roughly 3–6 months, depending on brand and correct two-phase washing.

Price/value claim:

  • Example “budget math”: about ~100 rub per 3–6 months per application.

3) Quartz coatings

  • Applied to a clean, properly washed (two-phase) body, with acid shampoo used as part of prep.
  • Application method described:
    • Leave the surface wet
    • Spray 2–3 times per element, then immediately rinse with osmosis water

Notes on streaks:

  • Streaks can remain if applied too heavily or not rinsed correctly
  • Speaker suggests that 2–5+ proper washes can help remove them

Longevity claimed:

  • Example estimate: about 5–6 washes when washed correctly.

Additional compatibility rules emphasized

  • If the car is protected with wax, then in Phase 2 use neutral shampoo only.
    • Acid shampoo can remove wax quickly.
  • For other coatings (ceramic/quartz/polymer/liquid glass), acid shampoo is preferred in Phase 2 to prolong their life.

Winter advice (two-phase still matters)

  • Washing in winter is described as harder, but still necessary:
    • Salt and road reagents create aggressive contamination.
  • The speaker suggests using the correct two-phase method even in cold weather (including choosing suitable self-wash setups).

Extra troubleshooting mentioned (glasses + coatings)

Anti-rain / anti-freeze and alcohols

  • Anti-freeze/anti-rain containing alcohol is described as potentially corroding protective coatings.
  • Speaker’s note: alcohol-based products can be an issue; in their case they sometimes use distilled water / different formulations.

Cleaning tinted/foggy/treating glass

Glass dirt types described:

  • Normal everyday coating (breath, etc.)
  • Smoke residue film (including from vaping)
  • Speaker claims alcohol-based glass cleaners won’t fully handle it

Suggested approach:

  • Use an alkaline cleaner first (example: “Ultraclean” from Detail, described as a universal wipe product for microfiber)
  • Then follow with an alcohol-based glass cleaner (examples mentioned)

If glass feels “damaged from inside” / rough:

  • Speaker says it may require special chemicals
  • Suggests sending photos to the contact number in the description

Notable products, brands, places, and speakers (mentioned)

People / channels

  • Unnamed main speaker + team/storespeople
  • Pass/hello to Fedorovich Live channel
  • “Leraton guys” mentioned (hello at a conference in Rostov)

Equipment / water / self-wash references

  • Kärcher
  • Self-service foaming guns
  • Osmosis water
  • “Last button” wax program

Brands / products

  • Mole (sewer pipe cleaner pH comparison example)
  • Active Save (alkaline shampoo example, Phase 1)
  • SE / Seven “As Face” (acid shampoo example, Phase 2)
  • Hydra shampoo (neutral with hydrophobic effect example, Phase 2)
  • Detail (e.g., “Ultraclean,” plus other detailing items)
  • Detail hardwax (hard wax example)
  • Geon (expensive hard wax example)
  • Sen “Ultra Quartz” (quartz coating example, Phase 3)

Locations

  • Rostov (and nearby “Rostov car washes”)
  • References to Moscow region, St. Petersburg, and the general “European part of Russia” hard-water conditions

Compliance/health note

  • “Smoking is harmful to your health” mentioned in the context of glass residue.

Smoking can worsen residue buildup (notably on glass), so the speaker frames it as both a health and maintenance issue.

Original video