The Curly Hair Rules I Don't Follow as a Hair Loss Expert | Dr. Idriss

Working With Naturally Wavy-Curly Hair

Dr. Shereene Idriss discusses learning to work with her naturally wavy-curly hair in her 40s while distinguishing styling preferences from scalp and hair health.

Washing and scalp care

• Wash according to your scalp, not a fixed curly-hair rule. Idriss washes about twice a week, adjusting based on oiliness, itchiness, flakes, sweat, dirt, or product buildup. Curly lengths may need gentle handling even when the scalp needs cleansing.
• Don’t automatically avoid sulfates. They can be drying, but a stronger shampoo may help when hair feels coated, dull, or weighed down. Consider the full formula and your scalp and hair’s needs rather than judging by one ingredient.
• Idriss says she takes a small weekly dose of Accutane to reduce oiliness.

Detangling and signs of hair loss

• Detangle gently when needed. Idriss usually avoids combing dry curls to preserve their shape. Instead, she detangles with conditioner or damp hair, starting at the ends and working upward.
• Frizz and mechanical breakage are not the same as hair loss.
• A widening part, thinner ponytail, more visible scalp, bald patches, or shedding that is noticeably greater than usual may warrant a dermatologist’s assessment. This differs from seeing shed hairs collected after several days without washing.

Styling and heat

• A diffuser and occasional heat styling are options. Idriss uses a diffuser and sometimes a curling iron. When using heat, she applies heat protectant, uses moderate heat, and keeps the tool moving. She avoids using a curling iron every wash and tries not to overdo heat. Her results also vary with the environment.
• Styling products are optional for hair health. Shampoo and conditioner are her basics; heat protection matters when using heat. Curl creams, mousse, gel, sprays, and oils are mainly for the look or feel she wants—not requirements for healthy curls.
• Oil has limits. Idriss avoids scalp oil because she dislikes washing it out and hasn’t found a clear benefit for herself. Hair oil may reduce friction and add shine or softness, but she says it doesn’t hydrate hair or automatically promote growth.

Idriss’s current styling routine

After washing, Idriss uses a wave spray, heat protectant, a volumizing product at the roots, and mousse. She scrunches her hair and sometimes adds gel for hold. Once her hair is dry, she breaks the product “cast,” uses a diffuser, and may curl the top sections for extra definition. She prefers lighter products because heavier creams can weigh down her hair.

Idriss says she is still experimenting. She encourages people to prioritize scalp health, minimize unnecessary damage, investigate genuine hair loss, and style their curls in the way they prefer rather than following every rule.

Notable people, places, and products

• Person: Dr. Shereene Idriss
• Places and settings: New York, Connecticut, and a beach setting
• Products mentioned: Kérastase Première and Curl Manifesto; Ouai wave spray; OGX heat protectant; Color Wow Extra Large Bombshell Volumizer; Raw Sugar Milk Hair Mousse; Crown Affair Air Dry Mousse; Garnier curling gel