EPOXY OVER EPOXY- HOW TO DO IT

Summary

The video demonstrates how to install a metallic epoxy floor over an existing epoxy coating without removing the old finish. The existing coating must be firmly bonded and not peeling. Any loose or damaged areas should be cut out and patched before proceeding.

Step-by-step process

1. Grind and profile the existing surface

   • Treat the coated floor much like raw concrete before applying a new layer.
   • Use a rental floor-polishing machine fitted with diamond-grinding discs to scratch and roughen the surface, giving the new coating something to grip.
   • Connect a dust hood and industrial vacuum to limit airborne dust.
   • If the existing coating is peeling or coming loose, remove and repair those sections rather than coating over them.

2. Remove dust and let the floor dry

   • Vacuum the entire floor after grinding.
   • For a thorough cleanup, mop with a damp mop and clean water without flooding the floor or leaving puddles. Repeat as needed, then allow it to dry completely.
   • If the job needs to proceed sooner, the presenter suggests using denatured alcohol, which evaporates quickly. Wipe carefully to remove dust.
   • Keep the work area clean: dust and debris can affect adhesion and show up in the finished epoxy.

3. Mix and apply primer

   • The example uses black EP300 water-based epoxy primer, mixed at a 4:1 ratio of Part A to Part B. The presenter adds the recommended amount of water, up to 64 ounces, and mixes thoroughly.
   • Black primer is generally recommended for metallic finishes because it enhances their color. White may be used when a particularly white pearlescent result is desired.
   • Apply a thin, even coat by pouring small strips and rolling them out. In the example, 1.25 gallons of mixture covers about 500 square feet.
   • Primer is beneficial for adhesion and durability, although the presenter says it is not strictly mandatory.
   • Let the primer dry fully—typically 2–4 hours, depending on conditions. It should not feel sticky or take fingerprints. The original grinding texture should still be visible through the thin primer layer.

4. Prepare the metallic epoxy

   • The example uses cinnamon-colored metallic epoxy, mixed at a 2:1 ratio of Part A to Part B.
   • First, mix the metallic pigment thoroughly into Part A for about 10 minutes. Do this before adding Part B so the pigment is evenly distributed without starting the curing process prematurely.
   • Add Part B only when ready to apply, then mix for about 2 minutes. For larger jobs, prepare batches of pigment-mixed Part A in advance and add Part B to each batch as it is used.
   • The example uses 1.5 gallons of mixed epoxy for roughly 150 square feet. A single-color application can use less material than a multi-color design because less resin is needed to create patterns.

5. Spread and roll the epoxy

   • Wear spiked shoes when walking on the wet epoxy, and work carefully because the surface may be slippery.
   • Pour the mixture onto the floor and use a flat squeegee to distribute it evenly. Let the squeegee’s weight do the work rather than pressing down.
   • Roll the edges, then use a wide roller to work the surface in multiple directions. Initial roller marks are expected to smooth out.
   • Work at a moderate pace. Keep the room clean, with windows closed and fans off, to reduce drafts and debris.
   • The presenter recommends a room temperature around 21–22°C, noting that cooler conditions generally provide more working time.

6. Create an optional denatured-alcohol effect

   • To create a decorative, textured-looking pattern while keeping the floor smooth, spray drops of denatured alcohol over the epoxy.
   • Timing matters: spraying too early can cause the epoxy to blend back together and erase the pattern. In the demonstration, the installer waited about 30 minutes, tested a small area, and waited until roughly 45 minutes had passed before spraying more broadly.
   • The technique is applied to only half the floor to compare its effect with the untreated half. The floor is then left overnight.

7. Apply the protective urethane

   • The next day, mix all three components of the satin-finish, hard-wearing urethane. The presenter mixes Parts A and B first, then adds Part C, which contains aluminum oxide.
   • Apply a thin coat with a roller, following the product’s coverage recommendation—about 500 square feet per gallon in the demonstration. Do not apply it thickly.
   • Work in small sections, rolling in different directions and overlapping sections to keep coverage even. Some pressure is needed to spread this thin coating.
   • Stir the mixture briefly from time to time because the aluminum oxide can settle in the container or tray.
   • Check the floor from different angles for missed areas or drips, and roll them out while the product is workable. Spiked shoes are not normally needed for this step but can help if a missed spot must be reached.

Main lessons and result

• A new coating can be applied over sound existing epoxy or sealed concrete if the surface is properly abraded, cleaned, and dry.
• Surface preparation and cleanliness are essential for adhesion and appearance.
• Apply primer thinly and allow it to dry completely.
• Mix metallic pigment thoroughly into Part A before adding Part B.
• A single-color metallic design can use less material than a multi-color design while still producing an attractive finish.
• The finished floor has a satin appearance. The urethane is presented as a durable, abrasion- and scratch-resistant topcoat suitable for garages, shops, offices, and warehouses.

Speakers and sources

• Unnamed presenter/installer: Explains and demonstrates the process on behalf of Epoxy Plus.
• Epoxy Plus: The company and product source mentioned by the presenter. No other identifiable speakers appear in the subtitles.