Renault Sport Clio 172 Cup - Modified guide ** 7,600rpm NA screamer **

Product reviewed

Renault Sport Clio 172 Cup (Mark 2, Phase 2) — discussed as a modified/track-leaning “stripped” hot hatch built off early-2000s Cup spec.

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What the video says the Clio 172 Cup is like (core experience)

• Presented as the “purest” / most hardcore version of the 172 line, aiming to save weight by “skimping” on comfort items.
• The owner frames it as not the fastest, but delivering huge “giggle factor” and liveliness—especially after replacing tired parts.
• Handling feel is improved by:
  • missing weight / reduced sound deadening
  • sorted suspension, shifting, and wear items

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Model/variant comparisons (key distinctions)

Phase 1 172 vs Phase 2 172

• Phase 1 172
  • Owner prefers its “timeless” looks.
  • Came with 15-inch lighter OZF wheels (per video).
  • Mentioned as having a longer gearbox ratio (context tied to older car/weight).
• Phase 2 172
  • Headlights changed to xenons (per video).
  • Switched to standard 5-spoke wheels (owner calls them “bland” for many).
  • Better original daily usability: cruise control and full climate control.

172 Cup vs other 172 versions (and why Cup is special)

The 172 Cup is characterized by:

• No air conditioning
• No ABS / traction control (zero assist)
• Thinner glass
• Less sound deadening
• Lighter seats (cloth “cheap” seats, per video)
• More “race-prep” character; popular as a base for stripped road racers

Owner emphasis: with no ABS/traction control, you must drive carefully—

“never going to protect you,” but still “great fun” and more nimble.

182 mentioned for context

• Mark 2 Phase 2 182
  • Similar look, with weight removal mentioned (e.g., removal of spare wheel well).
  • Multiple trims discussed: Full-fat (FF) vs Cup
  • 182 Cup vs 172 Cup: not the same—182 Cup still has an ABS pump and some Cup features.
• Owner suggestion:
  • If choosing an 182: 182 (full-fat) for value/pick.
  • But he’d still consider a stripped/assists-less build for fun.

Compared against newer generation Clio hot hatches (197/200)

• Owner says Clio 197 and 200 feel more “planted” and have better gearbox feel.
• However:
  • Real-world power increase is small: roughly ~5 to 6 lb-ft (subtitle wording was imprecise).
  • They’re heavier, which reduces fun.
  • Notes 197/200 address brakes (Brembo 4-pots on those cars).
• Verdict: Mark 2 172 feels more lively and torquey in mid-range, so it’s more fun.

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Pricing / market value mentioned

• “Ropey” phase 2 172s: ~£800–£1,000 (needing work)
• Good examples / correct mods / low mileage: ~£5k–£7k (varies by seller/market)
• Trophy 182 mentioned as rarer/sought-after:
  • Owner doesn’t rate it as “amazing” vs normal, but says rarity drives demand.
• Overall: value “holds strong” for Mark 2 cars versus later Clio 197/200 (as stated).

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“10 best upgrades” (unique points; with pros/cons where stated)

1. Tyres (most overlooked)

   • Choose good tyres: they drive grip/feedback and noise.
   • Example used: Yokohama Advan Race / “radio Arts” (not top-tier cost-no-object, but affordable and effective for dry use).
   • Warns against cheap tyres (calls £30-per-corner a false economy).
   • Tradeoff: not a full “top performance” tire—match to use case.

2. Coilovers + suspension refresh

   • Since it’s old, refresh wear items: wishbone bushes, track rod ends, etc.
   • Uses Bilstein / “Build Stein” coilovers.
   • Benefit: the car feels sharp and connected again.
   • Tradeoff: firmer ride comfort; lowered stance also reduces “stock height” look.

3. RS Tuner (ECU remap tool + diagnostics)

   • Uses FastChip / “Hank at fast chip” RS Tuner system.
   • Since it’s NA, the focus is drivability, removing restrictive feel below 5,000 rpm, plus diagnostics and logging.
   • Cost noted: under £200 (memory-based).
   • Pros: healthier management, improved linear delivery.
   • Cons: not a power-chasing solution.

4. Exhaust system / stainless steel

   • OEM-style exhaust parts often use mild steel, which rusts and fails (notably at hangers/neck).
   • Aftermarket mild steel may also be poor; small pipe diameter can still be a compromise.
   • Recommendation: stainless for peace of mind.
   • Example setup: K-Tec 2.5-inch twin silencer + de-cat straight pipe for off-road/off-filming (cat refitted for filming).
   • Tradeoff: louder track/decat sound.

5. Seat upgrade (fit/comfort vs hardcore buckets)

   • Owner is 6’2” and demonstrates how aggressive wraparound bucket seats feel/fit.
   • Pros (feel): makes the car feel more extreme.
   • Cons (daily): too hardcore for road/daily:
     • harder entry/exit
     • poor outward visibility
   • Options mentioned:
     • Recaro “Trendlines” (fit well in Trophy look, but owner dislikes support/movement)
     • removing seat spacers (~15 mm mentioned) to lower the driving position
     • harness bar angle warning: incorrect setup can cause spinal compression or seat tearing
   • Expensive option mentioned: Recaro CS (estimated up to ~£1,000+ per seat or nearly half the car’s value; subtitle was imprecise).
   • Tradeoff: improved position/support vs reduced practicality and potential safety setup risk.

6. Pure Motorsport shifter

   • Removes sloppy feel; replaces bushes with solid link/spherical bearing bushes.
   • Pros: more direct feel, cleaner shifts, stick sits higher.
   • Cons: gearbox noise/rattle—can be annoying on cruising (especially 5th). More race-like than daily-friendly.

7. Weight reduction (but “too far” can be bad)

   • For a weekend toy, removing rear seats/sound deadening improves:
     • acceleration feel
     • torque response feel
     • braking feedback
     • steering feedback
   • Owner went further than desired for winter daily use and described condensation/water issues, including dripping onto the passenger seat after alternator-related circumstances forced him to use the stripped car in cold weather.
   • Tradeoff: more anti-social; can create comfort/usage problems in bad weather.

8. Brake pad upgrade (and brake cooling)

   • Keeps it sensible: standard-size discs/calipers, but different pads + braided lines + fluid.
   • Chooses PBS brake pads.
   • Pros: improved bite/feel without huge cost/complexity.
   • Cons: dusting (black wheel spots noted), and aggressive compound behavior at heat.
   • Claims no fade “endless power” for his usage.

9. Matched inlets / uprating (selective)

   • Owner says the RenaultSport F4R engine is very expensive to tune for pound-for-power.
   • He argues it’s not the platform to chase big numbers.
   • Mentions:
     • a 2-piece inlet manifold that doesn’t match well; porting may improve mid-range and peak (his claim)
     • intake routing: air filter behind battery; silicone intake piping adds intake note and power
   • Warning: throttle bodies/cams become very expensive.

10. Engine mounts (especially rubber perishing)

    • Rubber mounts fail over time; includes a simple test:
      • in 3rd at 2–3k rpm, bounce throttle
      • excessive movement suggests mount trouble
    • Recommends Powerflex uprated mounts:
      • better throttle-to-engine feedback
      • reduces “floating” feel
    • Downside: more vibration/noise (especially track/race setups).
    • Mount types mentioned:
      • dog bone mount (likely to fail most)
      • upper gearbox / upper engine mounts (upper engine can split)
      • a specific front/subframe mount unique to RenaultSports with limited uprated options
    • Tradeoff: better feel but more NVH; best for weekend use per owner.

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Additional “flaws to check” when buying one (10 buyer concerns)

1. Driving position is too high
2. Gearbox condition
   • Not “bomb-proof”; watch for crunching (especially 2nd/3rd).
   • Worn synchros are expensive (gearbox rebuild + clutch work).
3. Engine mounts
   • Check for engine movement with bonnet open.
4. Cam belt / cam timing jobs
   • Floating F4R setup can be done wrong—use specialists.
   • Risk: poor power, worse MPG, major engine-related problems.
5. De Fazer pulley failure
   • Sounds like a diesel when failing.
   • Adds cost because it’s on top of cam belt work (~£150–£200 baseline, but can grow to £700+ when bundled).
6. Rocker cover leaks
   • Reseal is not straightforward; removal can disturb cam retention on this engine.
7. Exhaust rust
   • Mild steel rust/fall apart; hanger design can be poor—stainless recommended if not already done.
8. Chassis rust (especially rear arches)
   • Can look fine until cut deeper—becomes expensive.
   • Front wings are plastic; rear arches are hardest to inspect.
9. Steering rack bushes
   • Old bushes cause knocking and a disconnected feel; fix is easy but involves cramped hands-in-space work.
10. Headlight hazing
    • Common on both phase 1 and phase 2.
    • Restores with sandpaper + machine polishing, improving both appearance and night visibility.

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Overall recommendation / verdict

• Buy the right one and inspect condition: the car is best when you start with a good base and then refresh worn components.
• A great “smiles per mile” hot hatch, especially as a weekend/track-leaning project, because Cup spec is already lighter and less assisted.
• Not ideal for power-chasing: tuning is costly for modest gains (not a “20 hp game”).
• Biggest caveats:
  • No ABS/traction control (more driver skill needed)
  • Maintenance risk from aging parts (cam belts/timing, mounts, rust, exhaust)
  • Comfort compromises (weight removal, bucket seats, shifter noise/vibration)

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Named speaker contributions

• Single speaker throughout: James Stone (no other speakers meaningfully differentiated beyond occasional “Mark” references).