Video summary

FULLWAVE KIPROK TIGER TANPA POTONG KABEL KIPROK ORIGINAL, GAK PAKE RIBET!

Main summary

Key takeaways

Product Review

Product Reviewed

Full-wave “Kiprok”/rectifier conversion kit for a Beat carburetor scooter/motorcycle (brand referenced: Tiger kiprok; also mentions “original Tiger” and alternatives like Yamaha).

The video is essentially a how-to for converting from a half-wave/standard setup to full-wave to support more electrical loads (e.g., horn, LEDs, “deletes”/accessories) without the installer having to do a “potong kabel” (cable-cutting hassle)—though the process still involves unsoldering/cutting and rewiring/soldering in some parts.

Key Features Mentioned

  • Full-wave charging/rectification using a Tiger rectifier/kiprok.
  • Wiring approach (reusing/combining existing stator/coil cables), including:
    • a yellow jumper/spool to the rectifier
    • handling yellow and white wires
    • noting a missing green wire in the bike’s harness
  • Heat-resistant insulation and cleanup, including:
    • soldering/burning joints so they “become tight”
    • tidying wiring with covers/ties
    • warning to check for melted/overheated cable after long rides
  • Compatibility considerations:
    • wiring differs across bikes
    • the rider’s original Beat setup has only 3 cables
    • the rectifier requires correct physical mounting position (multiple orientations tested)

Tools & Parts (As Described)

  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Socket wrench
  • T-key sizes (including T10)
  • Keys: #8, #10, #14
  • L key/Allen-style
  • Ring wrench
  • Cutting pliers
  • Solder + tin
  • File (to fix damaged threads)
  • Lighter (to burn/sleeve/tighten)
  • Sandpaper
  • A small “bicycle spare wedge/bolt” idea to help hold a magnet nut in place
  • Cost note: mentions buying two units/parts for Rp. 70,000 (item specifics unclear)

User Experience (Practical Process)

The creator stresses the work is time-consuming, detailed, and nerve-wracking, especially for first-timers.

Opening the magnet/stator

  • The magnet can be difficult to remove after many years (bike implied to be ~14 years old).
  • Suggested method: tap the edge gently; if needed, use more force by tapping with a hammer.

Major risk: thread damage

  • He describes damaging/breaking threads while trying to fit the magnet nut.
  • Fix: file/grind the thread area so the nut can be reinstalled correctly.

Electrical safety cautions

  • Explicit warning: remove the fuse and/or battery before soldering to avoid shorts.
  • He mentions earlier failures where he forgot to remove the fuse, resulting in dead voltmeter and lights.

Mounting/fitment of the Tiger kiprok

  • He tried multiple mounting positions.
  • Some failed due to interference from bike movement/bumps and bracket “swinging.”
  • Final best fit: positioned more centrally to avoid being hit by the bike’s movement.

Testing & Results After Installation

After installing and wiring the Tiger full-wave rectifier, he tested:

  • Cranking/test works
  • Left & right turn signals: normal
  • Hazard lights: on (described as safe)
  • Brake test
  • Headlights and “twilight lights” (running/low beam)

Battery voltage readings

  • Battery voltage when off: 12.68V
  • While starting with gas: fluctuates/stabilizes around:
    • mention “1509” (likely 15.09V)
    • expectation stated: ~14.9V stable for a not-new battery
    • he reports it reaches about 15V
  • Conclusion: “No problem for me”; charging appears good.

Pros (Implied)

  • Reliable once installed correctly: lights/signals/hazards all function in testing.
  • Charging improvement/strong output: around ~15V while revving.
  • Enables more electrical accessories (horn, LEDs, etc.), which is the main reason for going full-wave.
  • Emphasizes safer installation habits (heat-resistant soldering/insulation, tidy routing).

Cons / Downsides / Risks

  • High difficulty and risk
    • Magnet opening is hard and can cause thread damage.
    • Incorrect handling may shift/bend parts, affecting internal alignment/behavior (concern about “ratios/output ratios” mentioned).
  • Time investment
    • Preparation and grinding/repair can take 2 days
    • potentially 2–3 days if unsure
    • the bike may be unusable during the work.
  • If it fails, costs can be significant
    • he warns that failure may require replacing parts/sets (exact list unclear)
  • Heat/wire quality concern
    • warns to check for overheating/melting on the thin/modified cable during long rides.

Comparisons Mentioned

  • Tiger kiprok vs Yamaha
    • He notes some people claim you can use Yamaha, but he chose Tiger to try/install an “original Tiger kiprok.”
  • Original vs modified cables
    • The modified jumper cable is thinner than stock, increasing overheating risk.

Unique Points (Consolidated)

  1. Goal: full-wave charging to power more accessories (horn, LEDs, etc.).
  2. Process is extremely detailed; skipping steps can lead to fatal consequences (strong wording).
  3. Magnet opening requires careful method; the bike is old/hard to open.
  4. Thread damage risk; may require filing/grinding to restore fit.
  5. Must remove fuse/battery before soldering to avoid short circuits.
  6. His Beat setup had 3 cables and no green cable.
  7. Yellow and white cables are re-soldered/re-routed into a full-wave setup.
  8. Cable tidying/tucking under covers, using ties, and ensuring heat safety.
  9. Rectifier mounting position is critical; he tested orientations and found a safest one.
  10. Testing includes turn signals, hazard, brakes, headlights.
  11. Voltage checks: - 12.68V off - around ~15.09V (1509) while revving; expected stability around 14.9V
  12. Charging seems adequate; he reports no problem.
  13. Strong warning: 2 days to 2–3 days and high stress.
  14. Failure can be expensive (replacement parts).

Speaker Breakdown

  • A single main speaker (installer/reviewer) dominates the video, giving step-by-step instructions, testing results, and personal failure/repair experience.
  • No clearly identified second speaker with separate viewpoints is shown.

Overall Verdict / Recommendation

Recommended only for experienced DIYers or anyone willing to spend substantial time and accept mechanical + electrical risk.

In his case, the Tiger full-wave kiprok conversion appears to work well (lights/signals functional; charging measured around ~15V while revving). However, the video heavily emphasizes:

  • difficulty opening the magnet
  • risk of thread damage
  • need for careful electrical safety

For beginners, the video suggests it’s easy to mess up and potentially costly.

Original video