How to Assemble a Pool Table / How to Put Together a Pool Table (COMPLETE GUIDE)

Main ideas / lessons conveyed

• The video is a complete, start-to-finish guide to assembling/reassembling a pool table, delivered as an unedited walkthrough (with only very brief recording interruptions).
• A key theme is organization and correctness:
  • Separate hardware by type.
  • Verify quantities.
  • Reassemble using the right parts in the right places.
• Another major theme is precision leveling:
  • Level the frame head-to-toe first using carpenters levels and shims.
  • Then level slate and align slate seams using a machinist’s level, wedges, and screws.
  • Finally level side-to-side using careful lifting and thin wood shims (where possible).
• The builder prioritizes professional best practices, including:
  • Avoid “chasing” the level endlessly.
  • Keep the table surface clean during critical steps.
  • Use appropriate materials/techniques for bridging slate seams (prefers bondo over wax/plaster options and explains why).

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Step-by-step methodology / instructions (detailed)

1) Prepare and sort hardware (very important)

• Go through the entire pile/batch of hardware and separate items by type.
• Count everything as you sort so you can confirm you have the correct quantities (use known counts based on the table’s design).

Example counting logic mentioned:

• Know how many:
  • corner frame bolts
  • rail threaded rods
  • washer-and-nut sets
  • slate screws
  • leg bracket bolts, etc.

Why counting matters:

• If the table was disassembled earlier (days/weeks/months), counting helps you remember what belongs where and prevents “missing/incorrect bolt length” mistakes.

Identifying bolt groups by length:

• Bolts for leg brackets vs pocket bolts can be different lengths.
• If you have 16 shorter bolts vs 12 longer pocket bolts, that tells you which group belongs where.

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2) Assemble the frame

• Separate and stage the necessary bolts/washers/caps/machine screws.
• Lay frame panels so they are flat on the ground:
  • Ensure the top edge across both panels is level at the start to prevent future slate “high spot” issues.
• Assemble corner/outer components first and loosely/structurally secure as needed before final tightening.
• Have help tighten and finish securing pieces once bolts are started.

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3) Install legs (initially loosely, then secure in the correct way)

• Lift one side of the frame, install a leg bolt/leg bracket bolt to hold position without fully tightening.
• Repeat for the other legs.
• For reinstallation where holes match previous locations:
  • Align each leg to the original sheet metal screw holes.
  • Drive screws back in.
  • Twist/rotate the leg until holes line up exactly, then tighten down.
• After sheet metal screws are installed, tighten the leg bolts.

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4) Center the table in the room before leveling

• Measure and mark the center of the table on top of the frame.
• Measure the room width, compute half, and place the table at that center mark.
• Position by measuring from a consistent wall (avoid mixing reference walls).
• Adjust back-and-forth:
  • Move head/foot to keep alignment consistent.
  • Recheck both ends after any movement.
• At this stage the table is positioned/centered; final leveling comes next.
• The narrator notes they typically position where they think appropriate, then bring the customer in to confirm/adjust.

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5) Level the frame head-to-toe (rough leveling)

• Use carpenter’s levels (one 4-foot and one 2-foot) for rough frame leveling.
• Shim under/at necessary areas (uses free Home Depot floor sample tiles as shims).
• Important leveling rule:
  • Don’t get into “chasing the bubble around” endlessly.
  • Stop when 3 sides are level and handle the remaining correction later using slate leveling.

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6) Install slate (three-piece slate), and align/level it using machinist-level precision

• Corner miters/covers may be installed before slate depending on stage.
• Place the first slate:
  • Ensure proper relative position (slate may include an arch/pattern indicating orientation).
  • Don’t bolt down immediately to fully start—start by positioning correctly.
• Slate alignment method:
  • “Pinned slate” historically used metal dowels to prevent mix-ups.
  • For modern tables, alignment is done using:
    • large scratch awls as drift pins / alignment aids
    • correctly aligning screw holes and slate seams
• Install all three slates first (relative position), then begin leveling.
• Use a machinist’s level:
  • Accurate; small debris can affect readings.
  • Sweep the slate surface so nothing interferes.

Leveling procedure concept:

• Identify which slate edge is high/low.
• Screw down only enough to secure high-end logic, then use wood door/window wedges between frame and slate to adjust height.
• Raise the low area slightly above level with wedges, then tighten screws to pull it back to exactly level.

Repeat for:

• End slates to match across seams.
• Middle slate:
  • If middle slate reads low/high at a side:
    • raise that side with wedges until it’s “just a touch high”
    • then tighten screws down to level it.

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7) Finish slate work

• After all slate screws are tightened and seams feel correct:
  • Check seams to ensure nothing shifted.
• Break off excess wedge material with an attack hammer.
• Clean table surface thoroughly.

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8) Fill seams between slate sections

• Preferred method: bondo.
• Reasons given against alternatives:
  • Beeswax/paraffin wax: in hot environments, oils can migrate through cloth, causing oil slicks.
  • Plaster of Paris: becomes brittle over time and can break out and produce debris/powder.
  • Melting wax introduces a fire hazard in a customer’s home.

Process:

• Scrape old residue with a palette knife.
• Re-clean top surface.
• Apply bondo.
• Allow drying time (often ~5 minutes; depends on mix/hotness).

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9) Recover cloth (customer-requested reuse in this video)

• Optionally shake/inspect cloth before installing.
• Use a pneumatic staple gun (Senco/Senco-like discussed) rather than manual electric ones to reduce failures and improve efficiency.

Stapling rules mentioned:

• Don’t over-staple: “You’re holding cloth down,” not overbuilding.
• For reused older cloth:
  • Don’t stretch it tighter than it was when removed (risk of ripping, especially ~13-year-old cloth).
• Align fold lines and rail bolt holes carefully.
• Start from a consistent side/section (middle to out, or corner to corner depending on cut/folds).
• Additional staples mainly near pocket ends.

Pocket trimming and safety:

• Use a razor blade to trim excess cloth around pockets/areas as needed.
• Staple/prepare pockets and remove old staples from pocket areas for safety and a clean upholstery surface.

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10) Install rails and pockets, then level side-to-side

• Assemble/install rails in two halves (as practiced here).

Safety/planning before final assembly:

• Determine which direction balls should break if they fly off (avoid breakables like windows).
• Set head rail vs foot rail orientation considering name plate positioning.
• Confirm tassels/pocket accessories:
  • Pull tassels back so they are not pinched between rail and pocket.

Pocket bolt tightening:

• Avoid over-tightening:
  • If bolts are too long, they can break out the rail drilling area.
• Stop/limit tightening when it begins to bind.

Rail bolt / threaded rod handling

• Start threaded rods with only a few turns (don’t bottom them out).
• Coordinate flipping/placement:
  • Rails can crack if timing/coordination between helpers is off.
• Ensure leather/pocket material is not pinched when rails are positioned.

Secure rails

• Snug/secure end bolts, then tighten remaining bolts.
• Use a 4-foot level against rails to confirm straightness.
• Stop using impact once alignment is confirmed.

Determine dot positions for racking

• Use a duct tape + string method:
  • Tape string across the name plate center on head rail.
  • Tape string across specific diamonds on opposite rail(s).
  • The intersection defines the rack “dot” location.

Final leveling: side-to-side

• Sweep and remove tools; use machinist’s level.
• If the frame has a lip allowing safe access:
  • Lift table carefully with help.
  • Use very thin wood shims (~1/32 inch or less) under the needed side.
• Check both ends after adjustment (in this case it required no further correction).

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11) Final cleanup and customer walkthrough

• Sweep/clean the top surface.
• Allow customer to walk around and check where levels are placed.
• Finish with general wrap-up guidance:
  • Use the video as a reference and jump to time-stamped sections.

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Speakers / sources featured

• Doug Giles
  • Primary speaker; narrator and pool table restorer/installer
  • Host of “Creative Restorations” channel
• David
  • Doug’s helper/assistant
  • Helps with camera, tightening, slate alignment, cloth stapling, pocket work, and other assembly tasks
• Customers
  • Mentioned as people Doug and David work with (specific individuals not named)

References / external mentions

• Preston Soto (referenced as a channel whose viewers may have come over)
• The Elegant Oxford (referenced channel)
• Steve Dedoclient / Beato’s Leatherworks (referenced as another crafts/leatherwork-related channel)
• Home Depot
  • Source for free floor sample shims
  • Also mentioned for wedge/shims/materials
• Senco
  • Pneumatic stapler brand mentioned