Video summary

What I Wish I Knew Before I Bought an Acoustic Guitar

Main summary

Key takeaways

Product Review

Product reviewed (context)

The video is a general “first acoustic guitar buying” lesson. It references the speaker’s own first acoustic guitar—a Taylor 110e—but the main focus is what to watch for when choosing/acquiring an acoustic guitar (especially used), including build quality, setup, and maintenance considerations.


Key points mentioned (unique)

  1. Don’t buy based on looks alone

    • People can be drawn to pretty wood on the soundboard (top), but it may look great and still sound bad.
    • “Boring” soundboard wood is often better: lightweight, straight grain, and well-stacked/parallel grains.
  2. Wood choice on the soundboard: “wild-looking” tops can be worse

    • Highly figured/wild grain examples like zebra wood/quilted/figured maple (described as “hardwoods”) are said to be counter-productive to ideal top-sounding characteristics.
    • The speaker claims plain-looking tops can sound much better (stated as “20 times better,” likely exaggerated).
  3. Body size/shape matters, but isn’t the whole story

    • Shape affects sound, but the “bulk” comes more from:
      • voicing
      • how top woods and back/sides woods are paired
      • how the instrument is voiced to bring out the wood
    • General sizing guidance:
      • Parlor = smaller/less bottom end
      • Dreadnought/jumbo = more “big” sound
    • Sweet spot mentioned: larger guitars can sometimes sound smaller than expected; the J45/dreadnought is positioned as “best of both worlds.”
  4. Player technique should influence body choice

    • If you’re heavy-handed / mostly strumming with a pick, bigger guitars like dreadnoughts stand up better.
    • If you’re more of a fingerstyle / light picking player, smaller bodies (e.g., OM/Triple-0, with “Eastman here” as the example) are said to be more sensitive.
  5. Acoustic setup is different—and harder to DIY than electric

    • Electric guitars often allow tuning/adjustment via screws/allen keys.
    • Acoustics typically have a glued bridge and bone saddle/nut, so adjustment options are more limited.
  6. Used-acoustic buying risk: neck relief/neck issues can get expensive

    • String pull can slightly lift the neck over time.
    • If action gets too high around 12th–14th frets, it becomes “unbearable.”
    • Cost estimate mentioned: $500 to $1,000 for a fix.
  7. Specific used-guitar warning: neck resets

    • A neck reset is described as a common repair on some acoustics.
    • Visual cue: if the saddle is essentially flush with the bridge, the action may have only been playable by lowering the bridge—suggesting a neck reset may be needed.
    • Example:
      • A 1980 Takamine “Lawsuit” era guitar (Japan; described as Martin clones).
      • Bought for about $300, but the neck reset would cost more than double the guitar’s value.
  8. Demand inspection and documentation when buying used online

    • Before purchasing (especially online), confirm:
      • you can trust the seller/inspection person
      • you receive detailed photos (notably string height at the 12th fret)
      • closeups of the bridge and nut
    • Key message: repairs and structural issues cost more on acoustics than many buyers expect.
  9. Humidity/seasonal storage is crucial

    • Wood moves with humidity:
      • Expands in width when over-humidified
      • Shrinks in dry conditions, increasing pressure on the top
    • Numerical warning: a 10% humidity drop (example: 40% → 30%) can cause giant cracks (as stated).
    • Recommendation:
      • Use 1–2 hygrometers
      • Keep room humidity around 40–50%
      • In very dry winter climates, store guitars in the case, especially if heating is on.
  10. Over/under-humidification anecdotes

    • Speaker: a personal case where a brace came loose due to humidity mismanagement.
    • Builder anecdote: an instrument with humidity control “went wrong” from over-humidification; the top bowed, then was corrected by restoring proper humidity and performing repair work (including a trust rod replacement mentioned in narration).
  11. Budget/mid-tier build flaws (builder “skin crawl” list)

    • Bad craftsmanship, such as:
      • braces not glued in the right spot
      • glue squeeze-out / sloppy glue application inside the guitar
      • incorrectly cut wood pieces (including grain-direction problems)
    • Even if the guitar looks clean from the soundhole, the builder suggests you’d find more issues if you could inspect internally (e.g., with a mirror / by taking it apart).
  12. Brand comparisons / opinions

    • Taylor: praised for manufacturing process/craftsmanship among the brands discussed, with lots of CNC automation and consistent steps.
      • However, the builder says he personally isn’t crazy about the Taylor sound.
    • Martin: described as doing clean work and good repairs (generally praised).
    • Criticism exists toward some manufacturers who “take advantage” of name-brand buyers who assume quality without inspecting the build.
  13. Sponsored retailer note (buying experience)

    • Mentions Sweetwater for having an inspection/setup process and strong customer support.
    • Implies it’s safer than some used/private purchases because guitars are more likely to arrive “dialed in.”

Pros and cons (as presented)

Pros (implied “good choices”)

  • Choosing soundboard wood characteristics
  • Matching body size to your playing style
  • Ensuring proper setup/inspection, especially for used guitars
  • Protecting the instrument with correct humidity control
  • Higher manufacturing consistency (Taylor praised for process; Martin praised for cleanliness)

Cons / risks

  • Buying solely for appearance can yield a guitar that looks rad but sounds bad
  • Used acoustics may need costly repairs ($500–$1,000 mentioned; neck resets can exceed the guitar’s value)
  • Humidity mistakes can cause cracks, loose braces, or other serious damage
  • Budget guitars may have internal construction problems (brace placement, glue quality, incorrect grain orientation)

User experience / practical guidance

  • For first-time buyers: prioritize soundboard/wood characteristics, choose body size based on how you play, and don’t ignore setup/humidity.
  • For used buyers: ask for detailed photos or use someone you trust to verify:
    • action at the 12th fret
    • bridge/nut condition
  • For ownership: buy hygrometers and keep humidity around 40–50%, often using the case during winter.

Overall comparisons made

  • Electric vs acoustic setup: acoustics are harder to adjust yourself because the bridge/saddle/nut are typically not easily adjustable.
  • Parlor vs dread/jumbo: size affects sound, but voicing and wood pairing also matter; larger guitars aren’t automatically “bigger sounding” than expected.
  • Fingerstyle vs strumming: smaller vs larger bodies should match playing style.
  • Brand/process comparison: Taylor (consistent manufacturing via CNC) vs Martin (clean work/repair quality), plus criticism of marketing-driven assumptions about build quality.

Ratings / numerical scores

  • No star ratings or review scores.
  • Numerical figures mentioned:
    • Used repair risk: $500 to $1,000
    • Humidity example: 40% → 30% via a 10% reduction
    • Target humidity range: 40–50%
    • Example guitar value: about $300
    • Neck reset implied cost: more than double that (~>$600, based on narrative)

Verdict / recommendation

If you’re buying an acoustic (especially used), the video recommends prioritizing soundboard quality and proper setup/inspection, choosing body size based on your playing, and preventing long-term damage with proper humidity control (40–50%). For build consistency, it specifically highlights Taylor (process/craftsmanship) and Martin (clean work), while warning about possible serious internal construction flaws in some budget brands.

Best recommendation: Buy based on build/sound and verify setup (or purchase from a retailer with inspection), and protect the guitar with humidity monitoring—these steps matter more than choosing a pretty-looking top.


Speakers / separate views (listed at the end)

  • Main speaker (Ret Sha / guitar owner)

    • Personal story about first guitar (Taylor 110e, sentimental value)
    • Emphasizes soundboard wood vs looks, body size reasoning, used-buying pitfalls, and humidity impact
  • Chris Alvarado (Driftwood Guitars, builder)

    • Deep dive on why acoustics are hard (soundboard wood characteristics, craftsmanship issues, brace/glue problems)
    • Strong opinions: praises Taylor (process) and Martin (clean work), while criticizing shortcuts in some manufacturers
    • Explains neck reset cues and maintenance/humidity effects from a luthier perspective

Original video