Video summary
What I Wish I Knew Before I Bought an Acoustic Guitar
Main summary
Key takeaways
Product reviewed (context)
The video is a general “first acoustic guitar buying” lesson. It references the speaker’s own first acoustic guitar—a Taylor 110e—but the main focus is what to watch for when choosing/acquiring an acoustic guitar (especially used), including build quality, setup, and maintenance considerations.
Key points mentioned (unique)
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Don’t buy based on looks alone
- People can be drawn to pretty wood on the soundboard (top), but it may look great and still sound bad.
- “Boring” soundboard wood is often better: lightweight, straight grain, and well-stacked/parallel grains.
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Wood choice on the soundboard: “wild-looking” tops can be worse
- Highly figured/wild grain examples like zebra wood/quilted/figured maple (described as “hardwoods”) are said to be counter-productive to ideal top-sounding characteristics.
- The speaker claims plain-looking tops can sound much better (stated as “20 times better,” likely exaggerated).
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Body size/shape matters, but isn’t the whole story
- Shape affects sound, but the “bulk” comes more from:
- voicing
- how top woods and back/sides woods are paired
- how the instrument is voiced to bring out the wood
- General sizing guidance:
- Parlor = smaller/less bottom end
- Dreadnought/jumbo = more “big” sound
- Sweet spot mentioned: larger guitars can sometimes sound smaller than expected; the J45/dreadnought is positioned as “best of both worlds.”
- Shape affects sound, but the “bulk” comes more from:
-
Player technique should influence body choice
- If you’re heavy-handed / mostly strumming with a pick, bigger guitars like dreadnoughts stand up better.
- If you’re more of a fingerstyle / light picking player, smaller bodies (e.g., OM/Triple-0, with “Eastman here” as the example) are said to be more sensitive.
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Acoustic setup is different—and harder to DIY than electric
- Electric guitars often allow tuning/adjustment via screws/allen keys.
- Acoustics typically have a glued bridge and bone saddle/nut, so adjustment options are more limited.
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Used-acoustic buying risk: neck relief/neck issues can get expensive
- String pull can slightly lift the neck over time.
- If action gets too high around 12th–14th frets, it becomes “unbearable.”
- Cost estimate mentioned: $500 to $1,000 for a fix.
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Specific used-guitar warning: neck resets
- A neck reset is described as a common repair on some acoustics.
- Visual cue: if the saddle is essentially flush with the bridge, the action may have only been playable by lowering the bridge—suggesting a neck reset may be needed.
- Example:
- A 1980 Takamine “Lawsuit” era guitar (Japan; described as Martin clones).
- Bought for about $300, but the neck reset would cost more than double the guitar’s value.
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Demand inspection and documentation when buying used online
- Before purchasing (especially online), confirm:
- you can trust the seller/inspection person
- you receive detailed photos (notably string height at the 12th fret)
- closeups of the bridge and nut
- Key message: repairs and structural issues cost more on acoustics than many buyers expect.
- Before purchasing (especially online), confirm:
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Humidity/seasonal storage is crucial
- Wood moves with humidity:
- Expands in width when over-humidified
- Shrinks in dry conditions, increasing pressure on the top
- Numerical warning: a 10% humidity drop (example: 40% → 30%) can cause giant cracks (as stated).
- Recommendation:
- Use 1–2 hygrometers
- Keep room humidity around 40–50%
- In very dry winter climates, store guitars in the case, especially if heating is on.
- Wood moves with humidity:
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Over/under-humidification anecdotes
- Speaker: a personal case where a brace came loose due to humidity mismanagement.
- Builder anecdote: an instrument with humidity control “went wrong” from over-humidification; the top bowed, then was corrected by restoring proper humidity and performing repair work (including a trust rod replacement mentioned in narration).
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Budget/mid-tier build flaws (builder “skin crawl” list)
- Bad craftsmanship, such as:
- braces not glued in the right spot
- glue squeeze-out / sloppy glue application inside the guitar
- incorrectly cut wood pieces (including grain-direction problems)
- Even if the guitar looks clean from the soundhole, the builder suggests you’d find more issues if you could inspect internally (e.g., with a mirror / by taking it apart).
- Bad craftsmanship, such as:
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Brand comparisons / opinions
- Taylor: praised for manufacturing process/craftsmanship among the brands discussed, with lots of CNC automation and consistent steps.
- However, the builder says he personally isn’t crazy about the Taylor sound.
- Martin: described as doing clean work and good repairs (generally praised).
- Criticism exists toward some manufacturers who “take advantage” of name-brand buyers who assume quality without inspecting the build.
- Taylor: praised for manufacturing process/craftsmanship among the brands discussed, with lots of CNC automation and consistent steps.
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Sponsored retailer note (buying experience)
- Mentions Sweetwater for having an inspection/setup process and strong customer support.
- Implies it’s safer than some used/private purchases because guitars are more likely to arrive “dialed in.”
Pros and cons (as presented)
Pros (implied “good choices”)
- Choosing soundboard wood characteristics
- Matching body size to your playing style
- Ensuring proper setup/inspection, especially for used guitars
- Protecting the instrument with correct humidity control
- Higher manufacturing consistency (Taylor praised for process; Martin praised for cleanliness)
Cons / risks
- Buying solely for appearance can yield a guitar that looks rad but sounds bad
- Used acoustics may need costly repairs ($500–$1,000 mentioned; neck resets can exceed the guitar’s value)
- Humidity mistakes can cause cracks, loose braces, or other serious damage
- Budget guitars may have internal construction problems (brace placement, glue quality, incorrect grain orientation)
User experience / practical guidance
- For first-time buyers: prioritize soundboard/wood characteristics, choose body size based on how you play, and don’t ignore setup/humidity.
- For used buyers: ask for detailed photos or use someone you trust to verify:
- action at the 12th fret
- bridge/nut condition
- For ownership: buy hygrometers and keep humidity around 40–50%, often using the case during winter.
Overall comparisons made
- Electric vs acoustic setup: acoustics are harder to adjust yourself because the bridge/saddle/nut are typically not easily adjustable.
- Parlor vs dread/jumbo: size affects sound, but voicing and wood pairing also matter; larger guitars aren’t automatically “bigger sounding” than expected.
- Fingerstyle vs strumming: smaller vs larger bodies should match playing style.
- Brand/process comparison: Taylor (consistent manufacturing via CNC) vs Martin (clean work/repair quality), plus criticism of marketing-driven assumptions about build quality.
Ratings / numerical scores
- No star ratings or review scores.
- Numerical figures mentioned:
- Used repair risk: $500 to $1,000
- Humidity example: 40% → 30% via a 10% reduction
- Target humidity range: 40–50%
- Example guitar value: about $300
- Neck reset implied cost: more than double that (~>$600, based on narrative)
Verdict / recommendation
If you’re buying an acoustic (especially used), the video recommends prioritizing soundboard quality and proper setup/inspection, choosing body size based on your playing, and preventing long-term damage with proper humidity control (40–50%). For build consistency, it specifically highlights Taylor (process/craftsmanship) and Martin (clean work), while warning about possible serious internal construction flaws in some budget brands.
Best recommendation: Buy based on build/sound and verify setup (or purchase from a retailer with inspection), and protect the guitar with humidity monitoring—these steps matter more than choosing a pretty-looking top.
Speakers / separate views (listed at the end)
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Main speaker (Ret Sha / guitar owner)
- Personal story about first guitar (Taylor 110e, sentimental value)
- Emphasizes soundboard wood vs looks, body size reasoning, used-buying pitfalls, and humidity impact
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Chris Alvarado (Driftwood Guitars, builder)
- Deep dive on why acoustics are hard (soundboard wood characteristics, craftsmanship issues, brace/glue problems)
- Strong opinions: praises Taylor (process) and Martin (clean work), while criticizing shortcuts in some manufacturers
- Explains neck reset cues and maintenance/humidity effects from a luthier perspective