Video summary

CHEAPEST Budget way For SOUNDPROOFING a Room

Main summary

Key takeaways

Lifestyle

Key Idea

The speaker argues that many “$20 soundproofing” videos are misleading. Instead of true soundproofing (blocking sound completely), the practical goal is usually sound reduction—primarily by sealing gaps and openings (especially around doors and windows), and only optionally adding mass or better damping.

Main Budget Soundproofing Approach (Door First)

Don’t expect acoustic foam to soundproof a door

  • Acoustic foam/foam sheets are described as sound deadening, not true soundproofing.
  • Example given: ~24 foam pieces could cost around $50.

Identify where the noise enters

  • Most noise comes from the door or window, not the walls.

Seal door gaps (cracks + seams)

  • Use a quick light test:
    • Turn lights on/off in adjacent rooms to see light bleeding
    • Check around:
      • the door perimeter
      • under the bottom of the door
  • Seal cracks with caulk so noise can’t pass through.

Use a replacement for “acoustic” caulk

  • The speaker claims “acoustic” products are often overpriced.
  • Recommended alternative: Red Devil caulking
    • Said to be guaranteed not to shrink or crack (unlike regular caulk).
  • Application steps:
    1. Ensure the surface is clean and dry
    2. (If needed) use small nails to keep the frame/edge properly affixed
    3. Apply caulking where the door meets the frame
    4. Let it dry

Stop door wobble

  • If the door wobbles, noise can leak through.
  • Options:
    • Weather stripping (cheap, under $10)
    • Upgrade: door seal kit (~$45 on sale in the video), installed and tested as better but more work

Fix the bottom-of-door leak

  • Quick airflow test: place a blanket at the bottom of the door and see if noise reduces.
  • Permanent option: add a U-shaped door sweep
    • Under $10
    • Cut to door width to improve sound reduction

“Extra” Door/Window Improvements (Better Sound, Not Total Blocking)

Moving blankets instead of acoustic foam

  • Use 1–2 moving blankets in front of the door (and for windows).
  • Hang using Velcro (industrial Velcro preferred for heavy blankets).
  • Claimed effects:
    • Blocks some outside noise
    • Reduces echo inside the room (sound feels less harsh/annoying)
  • Cost example:
    • About $17 for one blanket
    • Two for ~$20 (as stated)

Curtains option

  • If using blankets/curtains, the speaker emphasizes absorbing sound and reducing annoyance more than fully blocking noise.

Window Troubleshooting (Harder)

Seal the window frame like the door

  • Use the same caulking concept around where the window meets the frame.

Cover the window with moving blankets

  • Attach with double-sided Velcro (per the video).

Blackout curtains

  • Called “sound deadening” curtains—more deadening than true soundproofing.
  • Tip: buy a single wide panel rather than multiple panels to avoid seams that let noise in.

Expectation setting

  • The speaker doesn’t claim massive reductions (no “50%” type numbers).
  • Main benefit: deadens road noise and makes it less annoying.

Walls: the “Mass” Principle (Most Expensive Approaches)

Acoustic foam/panels aren’t the main fix

  • Foam/panels mostly improve inside room acoustics (reducing echoes and perceived loudness), not outside noise blocking.

Best DIY wall upgrade

  • Add mass, such as drywall, on the loudest-noise wall.

More advanced upgrade

  • Add Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) between drywall layers:
    • Dense, heavy, thin material intended to block/deaden sound
    • Costs: around $100+ for enough coverage (bulk buying may reduce cost)
    • Weight mentioned: about 1–2 lb per square foot

Budget Wall Workaround: Outlet Leaks

The speaker claims outlets can transmit noise because boxes/walls can have gaps.

Recommended methods (in order of practicality)

  1. Putty pads (if you can access behind the finished wall)
    • Wrap around the box
    • Mentioned as fire-safe and developed for containing fire
  2. If you can’t use putty pads:
    • Use Red Devil caulking
    • Remove the outlet cover and seal gaps between electrical box and drywall
    • If gaps are too large for caulk, use backer rod:
      • Cut to size
      • Wrap around the box
      • Then caulk all cracks
    • Reinstall the face plate

Repeat for other openings

  • Do the same for all outlet covers and light switches for noticeable improvement.

Overall Takeaway

The cheapest/highest-impact improvements come from:

  • Sealing door/window gaps
  • Reducing air leaks (weather stripping, door sweeps, caulking)
  • Using moving blankets to reduce noise annoyance and echo

Acoustic foam/panels are positioned as:

  • Useful for room sound quality (echo control)
  • Not reliable for blocking outside noise

Notable Products / Locations / Speakers Mentioned

Product names

  • Red Devil caulking
  • U-shaped door sweep
  • Door seal kit
  • Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)
  • Putty pads (for electrical boxes)
  • Backer rod
  • Moving blankets
  • Blackout curtains
  • Weather stripping
  • Acoustic sealant / “acoustic” foam/panels (discussed as often overpriced or for deadening)

Platforms / references

  • Amazon pricing (examples: caulking cost stated; door sweep and MLV cost ranges)

Locations

  • A home office (speaker’s room)
  • A separate room being soundproofed (reference example in the video)

Original video