Video summary
Ultimate Tattoo Guide for Beginners: Techniques, Needles & More - How To Tattoo
Main summary
Key takeaways
Main ideas / lessons (overview)
- This video is a beginner-focused guide to core tattoo fundamentals: lining, shading, and color packing.
- It covers:
- Needle selection
- Taper/needle characteristics
- Machine fundamentals like hand speed and voltage
- A major theme is avoiding common mistakes that lead to issues such as:
- blowouts
- black spots
- uneven/patchy shading
- unintended dotting
- The instructor emphasizes that results depend on:
- skin depth/layer
- consistent motion
- matching technique parameters (needle type, voltage, stroke length, needle protrusion) to the goal.
Step-by-step methodology & key instructions
1) Core tattoo basics: needles, gauges, and designations
Needle gauge (first number on packaging)
- Determines thickness at the thickest point
- Examples:
- 8 gauge ≈ 0.25 mm (good for detailed work, but delicate)
- 10 gauge ≈ 0.3 mm
Number of needles (second number)
- Affects line thickness and shading coverage
- More needles → thicker lines
- For shader needles: more needles → thicker shading
Needle type letters (needle arrangement/function)
- RL = Round Liner
- For clear, clean linework
- RS = Round Shader
- For filling colors and basic shading / thick lines
- Key difference vs liners:
- Round shaders are straight and more spaced, creating a cavity for pigment
- M1 = Magnum needles
- Mistake to avoid:
- Using a magnum that isn’t properly rounded on the sides
- Described as a “soft edge” needle not being rounded
- Why it’s a problem:
- Can strain skin too much and cause worse outcomes (called “too aggressive”)
- Claim: “no smooth transitions at overlapping points”
- The video says this type is rarely used
- Mistake to avoid:
- RM / CM = Curved Magnum Shader
- Better ink distribution and smoother shading
- The instructor uses this frequently for soft clean shading
Taper (last letters on the needle package)
- Tip geometry affects how the tip behaves in skin
- Examples:
- MT (Medium taper): medium length tip for thicker outlines and filling
- LT (Long taper): long “all-rounder” for outlines and shading
- XDL (Extreme long taper): even longer than LT, mainly for outlines
- BP (Bug pin): finest taper for extremely fine lines
Note on manufacturer settings
- The instructor says manufacturers typically ship needles with the optimal taper for the intended needle.
- Viewers should still understand what taper means.
2) Tattoo depth: where ink should go (and how to judge mistakes)
Goal ink placement
- Needles should penetrate:
- Top layer, then push ink into the dermis
- The instructor describes dermis as a leathery layer ~1–2 mm below the surface (varies by skin type).
If you go too shallow
- Ink stays in the epidermis
- Result: fading and uneven appearance
If you go too deep
- Ink reaches the subcutis
- Result: blowout and client dissatisfaction
Signs of tattooing too deeply
- Often noticed after tattooing:
- scars
- blisters
- inflammation
Depth variation by body location / skin thickness
- Instructor states depth varies between 0.5 to 1.5 mm
- Examples:
- Thinner areas (e.g., elbow, ankle) → don’t go as deep
- Thicker areas (e.g., thigh) → may go deeper
Needle entry/exit mistakes to avoid
- Avoid abrupt insertion
- Enter gently
- Exit gently
- Otherwise: risk of unintended black dots
When continuing later / resuming a line
- Use a:
- soft exit
- then soft re-entry when resuming after stopping
3) Hand speed and voltage: how they work together
Definitions
- Hand speed = how fast/slow you move the machine over skin
- Voltage = determines how fast the needle moves (and penetration aggressiveness)
Interdependence
- Higher voltage → needle moves faster → more aggressive penetration
- Lower voltage → gentler → slower penetration
Consistency rule
- Fast hand + low voltage → weak lines
- Slow hand + high voltage → can damage skin
Core advice
- Achieve balance/harmony between hand speed and voltage.
4) Lining: two methods + recommended stroke and needle protrusion
Line strategy basics (given parameters)
- The instructor says they use:
- 4.2 mm stroke length
- Needle held about 4 mm out of the cartridge
- They often use a 7 round liner (0.3 mm) to demonstrate “thick needle” lining.
Two methods to adapt to needle size
-
Adjust voltage to match needle size
- Keep hand speed the same
- Example idea:
- Thicker needle at a certain voltage
- Thinner needle at the same speed → reduce voltage
- Example given: reduce from 8 to 5 volts for a thinner needle
-
Adjust hand speed to match needle size
- Keep voltage the same (example: 8 volts for every line)
- Thinner needle: draw line faster
- Thicker needle: draw line slower
Pick-a-technique guidance
- The video references “eight different techniques for solid tattoo lines,” but later details focus on the instructor’s common ones.
5) Outlining techniques (needle protrusion + movement patterns)
Common needle for outlining
- Round liner (single round needle configuration) for sharp, clean lines
- Demonstration uses 7 round liner (0.3 mm)
Technique set (as described)
-
Short protrusion “stop” approach
- Protrudes about 1 mm
- Works only on even surfaces
- Drawback: guidance is unclear; module/ink spot blocks view
-
Push/pull forward line with guiding hand stabilization
- Protrudes about 4 mm
- Hold an angle and pull toward self
- Stabilize guiding hand with thumb
- Popular, but instructor uses it less (depth regulation is harder)
- Also can’t rely on “hitting the stop” since skin waves form
-
Favorite: angled pull toward self (gentler)
- Needle angle determines the line
- If machine is straight without angle → natural form becomes a DOT
- Lateral angle must not be too shallow:
- risk of blowout
- Instructor explicitly mentions blowout risk if lateral angle is too shallow
-
Lateral angle workaround
- For when you can’t hold the machine straight
- Instructional constraint:
- avoid going shallower than the shown safe angle
-
Small back-and-forth movement technique
- Used only in difficult areas like elbow/knee
-
Even back-and-forth movement technique
- Emphasizes moving the machine evenly so the line stays consistent
-
Push variant with needle facing toward vs away
- Facing changes aggressiveness and ease:
- One variant is “much gentler”
- “Facing away” is more aggressive and “not used”
- Facing changes aggressiveness and ease:
Volume note
- “Lines at 8 volts” is presented as a default.
- But manufacturer variability means you should experiment.
6) Lining support mechanics (skin stretching & angle cautions)
- Stretch the skin using your free hand in all techniques.
- Angle caution
- Avoid making the machine too flat.
- Too flat increases risk of blowout.
- Instructor mentions an “avoid” angle and gives an approximate limit.
7) Shading: seven techniques (with needles, voltage, stroke, motion)
The video presents 7 shading techniques with parameters and movement patterns.
-
Push whip shading
- Setup:
- 9 Magnum soft edge
- 8 volts
- 3.3 mm stroke
- Needle extends ~2 mm from cartridge
- Motion:
- Hold with three fingers
- Push away from yourself
- Needle enters vertically; adjust depth via hand movement for a gradient
- Notes:
- Artificial skin is tougher → needs more passes
- Common mistake:
- If you don’t smoothly pull out, gradients won’t be soft.
- Setup:
-
Stipple / pepper / whip shading (fast axis rotation)
- Setup:
- 7 round liner
- 5 volts
- 4.2 mm stroke
- Needle extends ~3 mm
- Motion principle:
- Insert needle and rotate hand away on a rounded axis
- Correct motion prevents solid line entry → creates stippling
- Alternative:
- Pull motion can work, but keep voltage low and hand movement fast
- Mistake:
- Too high voltage causes undesired results.
- Setup:
-
Scumbling (small circles)
- Setup:
- Soft edge Magnum needle
- Motion:
- Small circular motions
- Adjust depth with hand movement
- Tuning:
- Slower circles → more solid ink incorporation
- Faster circles → lighter texture
- Mistake:
- Use a magnum with rounded corners or visible edges may appear.
- Setup:
-
Pull whip shading (gentler than push whip)
- Setup:
- Uses the same general idea (larger magnums yield softer shading; described as good for light shading)
- Motion:
- Pull toward yourself instead of pushing away
- Advantage:
- Less aggressive on skin than push
- Mistake:
- Starting too slowly or inconsistent movement can cause a black spot at the start.
- Setup:
-
Dot work shading
- Setup:
- 7 round liner
- Motion:
- Small dots from bottom to top
- Shading determined by:
- distance between dots
- depth of insertion
- Mistake:
- Going too deep can cause blowout that may appear after healing.
- Setup:
-
Cross shading
- Setup:
- Needle extends ~2 mm from cartridge
- Motion:
- Shade in two directions (less aggressive approach)
- Pull toward yourself
- Blending:
- Second pass in another direction softens and blends
- Can also be done with liner needles as cross-hatching
- Setup:
-
Pendulum shading
- Instructor’s favorite / majority of their shading
- Setup:
- Works even with round liner needles
- Motion:
- Even back-and-forth like a pendulum
- Result:
- Soft shading in every direction; good for long continuous shading
- Mistake:
- Requires controlled movements for solid final shading.
8) Color packing for large areas (needle choice + pass control)
Goal
- Fill large areas with solid black / consistent pigment while minimizing visible needle structure.
Needle and machine setup (as described)
- Example:
- 13 Magnum soft edge
- 8 volts
- 3.9 mm stroke
- Needle extends ~2 mm
Skin material note
- Artificial skin absorbs ink differently than real skin:
- On silicone, results can look blotchier
- Demo may differ from real skin behavior
Depth restriction
- Don’t go deeper than ~1.5 mm
Edge handling
- Don’t tattoo all the way to the edges on the first pass:
- Leave a small space and fill later with a thinner needle
Color packing mistakes to avoid
- Avoid aggressive magnum misuse
- Magnum must be rounded like a soft-edge needle or it can strain skin too much.
- Avoid uncontrolled movements
- Use controlled, even movements to embed color properly.
- Use enough Vaseline
- Makes wiping easier while filling.
- Avoid rushing
- Rushing can lead to slower overall time due to corrections.
- Practice-first warning
- Try on silicone skin first to learn machine feel and voltage.
9) Two-pass filling strategy for packing blacks
-
First pass (opening the skin)
- Small circular motions in one direction
- Purpose:
- Open the skin so plasma/blood would emerge
- Not necessarily to fully saturate on pass one (reason explained for later)
-
Short break
- Take a short break after pass one
- Purpose: reduce swelling so skin accepts pigment better
-
Second pass
- Must be in a different direction
- Purpose:
- build a “network under the skin” for a solid black area
- Never more than two passes
- Overworking can cause scarring
Artificial vs real skin reminder
- Artificial skin accepts color differently, so behavior may not match real skin.
10) Edge refinement near boundaries
Instructor’s edge needle approach
- Uses a 9 round shader
- 8 volts
- 3.9 mm stroke
- Needle extends ~3 mm
Edge motion
- Preference:
- long oval circular motions
- Beginner guidance:
- this approach is suggested for cleaner edge work
Practice recommendation
- Try first on silicone skin to build control.
Promotional / meta content included
- Calls to action:
- Subscribe/like the video to support the channel
- Mentions a discount code and machine list:
- Discount code: “pon y tattoo” (10% off)
- References a “check the video here” for the tattoo machine used
Speakers / sources featured
- Primary speaker/instructor
- Unnamed tattoo artist and channel host
- Claims ~10 years of experience
- Demonstrates needle types, depth, and techniques