Edelrid Ohmega vs ZAED Pro vs Mammut Assist: Which Brake Resistor Is Best?

Overview

The video compares three brake resistors designed to reduce how far a lighter belayer is pulled upward when catching a heavier climber: the Edelrid Ohmega, ZAED Pro 2, and Mammut Alpine Assist (also called Mammut Assist).

All three can provide protection from the first bolt, but each must balance adding resistance during a fall with allowing the rope to run freely while the climber clips.

The tester and his partner had a weight difference of about 35 kg. Performance may also vary depending on rope diameter and condition, humidity, rope angle, first-bolt height, belayer position, and route angle.

Product Comparisons

Edelrid Ohmega

The Ohmega uses a cam to pinch the rope and an integrated pulley intended to let the rope run more freely during ordinary climbing. It has three resistance settings, described as minimum 10, 20, or 30 kg of added resistance. In the tester’s experience, only the lowest setting was practical.

On the middle and highest settings, the device repeatedly locked up while the climber tried to clip quickdraws. The highest setting also produced an overly sharp catch. The middle setting gave a smooth catch but made climbing difficult.

On the lowest setting, clipping was trouble-free and falls gained some resistance, though the belayer was still pulled upward more than ideal.

Pros: Compact and light at 190 g, making it the lightest of the three. It is convenient to carry in a pack, and the tester especially liked it on more overhanging routes because it did not interfere with clipping on the lowest setting.

Cons: The lowest setting provided limited useful resistance, while the other settings caused clipping problems. Its sling will eventually need replacing.

Price: The video quotes about €135 earlier in the review and €125 in the final comparison.

ZAED Pro 2

The ZAED Pro 2 uses a rope-zigzagging design to add friction. Its three settings are adjusted by moving a pin between holes, and it also has a cam for first-bolt protection.

The tester found that the middle and highest settings added noticeable resistance while clipping, but did not provide enough resistance during falls for his partner’s comfort. On the middle setting, the belayer could be pulled close to the quickdraw.

The tester used the device for around six months and found the clipping issue frustrating and fairly consistent, though rope and environmental conditions affected performance.

Pros: The device can be opened with Torx screws for maintenance and parts replacement, rather than requiring replacement of the whole device.

Cons: It is larger than the Ohmega and heavier at 237 g. The tester felt its balance between clipping resistance and fall resistance needed improvement.

Price: About €132 at the time of recording.

Mammut Alpine Assist

The Mammut Alpine Assist uses a cam and shaped rope paths. The presenter believes its design adds resistance progressively before the cam fully pinches the rope, contributing to smoother catches.

It has two settings: attach it directly to the bolt with a carabiner for higher resistance, or use a quickdraw for lower resistance. The manual recommended the lower-resistance setting for the tester’s 35 kg weight difference. The tester noticed a small amount of extra friction while clipping, but the device did not lock up during his test. He had not tested the higher-resistance carabiner setup.

Falls on the lower setting felt natural and smooth for both climber and belayer. The presenter rated its fall performance 10/10.

Pros: Strong build quality, no soft sling or other soft materials to replace, and the lowest price. At 220 g, it is slightly heavier than the Ohmega but remains relatively light and compact.

Cons: Some clipping friction may occur depending on conditions. The tester was unsure how well it would work for smaller weight differences and had not tested the higher-resistance setting.

Price: About €100 on Mammut’s website at the time of recording.

Context: The Original Edelrid Ohm

The original Ohm was described as a breakthrough, but it could produce overly hard catches, make it difficult to release the rope after a fall—prompting the “wiggle trick”—and activate while clipping, leaving the climber short-roped. It was also bulky and weighed 470 g.

The video cites a price of about €100, roughly €30 more than a GriGri at the time. The Ohm’s popularity eventually led to more competitors.

Overall Verdict and Recommendations

The presenter says none of the three devices is perfect. The central challenge remains adding useful resistance during a fall without hindering clipping.

• Best all-rounder: Mammut Alpine Assist, particularly for weight differences greater than 30 kg on vertical-to-slabby routes. The presenter valued its smooth catches, build quality, low maintenance, compactness, and price.
• Best for the presenter on more overhanging routes: Edelrid Ohmega on its lowest setting, because it allowed free clipping and was easy to keep in a pack, despite providing less fall resistance than desired.
• ZAED Pro 2: Has potential and offers useful maintainability, but the presenter felt it needed refinement because it hindered clipping while providing less fall resistance than he wanted.

Other Views Mentioned

The presenter says Stefan, the owner of ZAED, supplied the ZAED devices for free. He describes Stefan as active in the brake-resistor community and says he is working on a UIAA standard intended to improve product safety.