Video summary

The 3D Filament Tier List! Which Should YOU Use?

Main summary

Key takeaways

Product Review

Product reviewed

This video isn’t reviewing a single physical product. Instead, it’s a creator-made “tier list” ranking of popular 3D printing filament types (about 40 materials). The “product” is essentially:

  • The filament tier-list guidance
  • The included printable STL files for the tier list

Main features / what the video provides

  • Ranks filaments into S / A / B / C / F tiers based on:
    • how well their pros outweigh their cons
    • how broadly useful they are across projects
    • practical factors like printing difficulty, reliability, and real-world performance
  • Encourages designing projects around top-tier filaments where possible (S tier)
  • Mentions printable STLs and a tier-list model provided via the creator’s description
  • Includes practical “user experience” notes, such as:
    • warping, brittleness, layer adhesion
    • humidity sensitivity
    • support removal
    • bed adhesion issues
    • required printer conditions (enclosures/heated chambers/nozzle temps)

Key rankings (materials and why)

S tier (best overall / “ideal choice”)

  • PLA (placed in A tier) — described as reigning king for usability, with important caveats (see notes below)
  • Carbon Fiber PLA (CF-PLA) Sharper details, low shrink, matte accurate output. Stiffer but more brittle. Avoids “vanilla PLA-only” limitations because nozzle swaps are easy.

  • Tough PLA (PLA + PBT / polybutene terephthalate) A “straight upgrade” for light duty: more heat resistance and impact resistance; doesn’t shatter under overload.

  • High-speed PLA Melts at lower temperature / low viscosity for faster printing. Best when printer speed is limiting, though it can soften in hot climates.

  • CF + PETG (Carbon Fiber PETG / “CFPG”) More stable than PETG; better support quality; stiffens; framed as “almost ideal” for functional prototypes.

  • PCTG (PETG, but glycol-modified) Extremely easy to print, strong layer adhesion, minimal warping/sagging. Main downside: supports being hard to remove, plus expense/availability.

  • PETG (described as A tier) Versatile, but weaker at bridges/overhangs and support release; moisture sensitive.

  • PT-related “engineering polymer” highlights

    • PEEK/PEAK is discussed but rated C tier (described separately as “super polymer” tier practicality issues).
  • TPU (standard TPU) Tough, cheap, lots of colors/hardnesses, great layer adhesion and shatter resistance. Described as having an “indestructible” feel.

  • SEBS Flexible TPE variant: stretchy and smooth printing. Downsides include being hygroscopic and smelly, with extruder-specific tuning required.

A tier

  • PETG “Supremely versatile.” Tougher than PLA, higher temp handling, clearer, low friction. Bridge/overhang and support-release drawbacks, plus fast water absorption.

  • ASA (ABS “better outdoors” cousin) Withstands heat and direct sunlight well, less warping than ABS. Still smelly/off-gasses → ventilation implied.

  • PLA (overall usability) Great usability, but ends up A tier due to heat/sun softening and brittleness at drops.

B tier (good but situational / harder tradeoffs)

  • Silk PLA Looks great and supports remove easily, but weaker. Can “puff” near hot ends and may damage extruder/exteriors in some setups.

  • Wood PLA / “wood composites” Can look convincingly wooden with varnish. But prints poorly, spurts/sputters after humidity absorption, and results are generally weaker.

  • Matte PLA Satin/springy feel; easier to drop-strike and sand/carve. Downsides: higher humidity absorption, jams more, and semi-flexibility isn’t always desired.

  • PCL (Flex PLA / MakerBot name confusion) Very low-temp prints; can be shaped with a hair dryer even while wearing for prosthetics. Often difficult to print.

  • ABS + HIPS ABS: tough and outdoor-capable but warps heavily (enclosure desired). HIPS: useful as soluble support material for ASA/ABS contexts.

  • PA6/PA12 nylon families Strong and flexible (PA6) or stiffer (PA12), but very hygroscopic and demanding (dry boxes/heated chambers). Both in B tier.

  • Many additional engineering blends/composites land in B/C depending on printer demands.

C tier (limited usefulness / compromises)

  • PVB / ABS-acetone-smoothing type use cases Interesting vapor smoothing with alcohol, but practical downsides including vapor/fused spool risk.

  • PC (polycarbonate) Very tough but slow/humidity issues, complex temps, and overkill for many projects.

  • PMMA/Acrylic filament Gorgeous clarity but poor bed/layer adhesion, fragile, high failure risk. Essentially C tier (clear look only).

  • Nylon blends (nylon + polyester) Offers nylon strength but combines worst failure modes; generally worse than choosing one polymer side.

  • PEEK’s “close cousin” / related high-temp polymers Some are placed C or A depending on printability.

  • OBC Potentially useful but nearly impossible bed adhesion and expensive.

  • Super polymer tier Generally lands in C/B due to printing difficulty and setup cost.

F tier (avoid / “fundamentally sucks”)

The video heavily uses F for:

  • badly impractical plastics
  • extremely problematic printing characteristics
  • severe safety/toxicity concerns

Examples mentioned:

  • HDPE: “worst filament in every way.” Extreme warping and bed adhesion failures; only useful for purging.
  • POM/Acetal (“Delrin/Palm” in transcript): almost no bed adhesion; layers split. Overheating risks toxic decomposition → F tier.
  • PVDF: strong chemical resistance but decomposes into highly toxic compounds if overheated → F.
  • PEAK/PEEK: paradoxically technically amazing but rated C tier (not F).
  • TPI / Kapton: placed F tier due to extreme printer requirements (very hot nozzle/chamber) and cost/feasibility.

Pros (repeated across the “best” materials)

  • Easy-to-print + reliable properties (PLA/PETG family, PCTG, TPU)
  • Strong layer adhesion and real-world durability (Tough PLA, TPU, and reinforced variants)
  • Better heat resistance / outdoor suitability than basic PLA (ASA, Tough PLA, nylon, PCTG/CFPG)

  • Functional prototype performance CFPG and PCTG repeatedly framed as “nearly ideal” for strength + stability.

Cons (repeated across the “avoid” materials)

  • Heat/sun sensitivity (PLA softens; brittle behaviors)
  • Moisture absorption leading to failed prints (PETG, TPU, nylon, etc.)
  • Warping/sagging/bridge/support failures (PETG/Tough engineering plastics vary; PLA variants often brittle)
  • Support removal difficulty (notably PCTG’s supports)
  • High cost + limited suppliers (many premium engineering plastics/composites)
  • Printer requirements: heated chamber/enclosure/high nozzle temps for many B/C materials
  • Safety concerns for certain plastics if overheated (PVDF, POM/acetal mention)

Comparisons made

  • PLA vs variants
    • Vanilla PLA: easiest/cheapest, but not durable under real-world heat/UV; brittle drops
    • Silk PLA: trades performance for appearance/support-ease
    • Matte PLA: trades reliability (humidity/jams) and flexibility for a satin feel
    • Tough PLA: framed as a superior “upgrade”
    • High-speed PLA: compared against “regular PLA capped by throughput”
  • PETG vs PCTG
    • PCTG described as PETG “but better everywhere,” with major downsides being supports/removal difficulty plus cost/availability
  • Composite logic
    • Carbon fiber helps stiffness + detail + dimensional stability, but can increase brittleness
    • Metal-filled filaments are largely dismissed as weak/brittle/expensive
    • Paint/coatings/inserts suggested as better value alternatives
  • Engineering polymers
    • Nylon variants: strong but hygroscopic and demanding
    • ABS vs ASA: ASA framed as outdoor/UV/heat-improved with less warping
  • Flexible filament categories
    • TPU (recommended) vs TPE (harder to predict; extruder compression; messy appearance)
    • PP compared as “rigid-feeling flexible,” but with terrible bed adhesion/support removal characteristics

User experience / setup notes (how it affects “real use”)

Filament success is tied to:

  • Drying and humidity control
    • TPU, PETG/PCTG, nylon, and some blends need drying
  • Printer thermal environment
    • ASA benefits from better enclosure/conditions than ABS
    • Nylon and high-temp polymers often require heated chambers
  • Support strategy
    • Some materials (PCTG, Silk PLA, PLA variants) change how supports behave (easy vs hard to remove)
  • Extruder/nozzle compatibility
    • Carbon/glass can be abrasive → hardened nozzles and drive durability considerations

Unique points mentioned (consolidated list)

  1. Tier list grading system: S best, F avoid; A/B/C in between; higher rank when pros outweigh cons across wider project types.
  2. “Weird rare filaments” mostly not recommended for typical makers; focus on popular iconic useful materials.
  3. PLA: easy, cheap, prints fast; great bridges/overhangs; stiff with good tensile strength; cons: creeps in heat, UV softening, brittle drops; harder to sand/glue/paint well after printing.
  4. Silk PLA: shiny; easier supports removal; weaker; can cause “puffing”/extruder issues; best for aesthetics.
  5. CF-PLA: sharper detail/stability/matte accurate finish; stiffer but more brittle; nozzle swapping is easy/cheap.
  6. Metal-infused composites: expensive, brittle, weaker than vanilla; alternatives suggested (paint/inserts/electroplating).
  7. Wood PLA: humidity sensitive, poor printing, ends up weaker; visual hardwood feel can be convincing with varnish.
  8. PLA alloys (tough/matte/high-speed):
    • Tough = best upgrade
    • Matte = situational, jams more, humidity sensitive
    • High-speed = lower-temp melt enables faster printing; hot climates risk softening
  9. PCL: very low-temp, sculptable with heat (even while wearing for prosthetics); adhesive-less tacky behavior; difficult printing but can be life-changing.
  10. PETG: versatile, tougher, higher temp; clear; low friction; cons: bridges/overhangs and supports; absorbs water.
  11. CFPG: stiffer/more stable PETG with better supports; suitable for functional prototypes.
  12. PCTG: near-perfect printable balance—easy, stable, strong layer adhesion; cons: supports hard to remove, expensive/hard to find.
  13. PET (beyond PETG): stiff and heat resistant but has overhang/warping/humidity issues; generally easier than some high-end polymers like nylon/polycarbonate.
  14. PVB: alcohol vapor smoothing can fuse surfaces; can create “fused spool” issues; can be solvent welded with acetone; otherwise weaker.
  15. ABS: tough and outdoor-capable; warps; solvent smoothing possible; enclosure ideally but not strictly required.
  16. ASA: better heat and sunlight resistance than ABS; less warping; prints challenging; off-gasses; good for taking a beating.
  17. HIPS: support material for ASA/ABS; solvent attacked by lemoning/solvents; useful in props.
  18. Nylon (PA6/PA12): very strong and flexible/stiffer; hygroscopic → strict drying/heated chamber; warps aggressively.
  19. Carbon fiber nylon (PA6CF/PA12CF): reduces warping and increases stiffness but needs powerful hot end/printing capability.
  20. Glass-filled nylon (GF nylon): stiff/tough/heat resistant with reduced warping; prints easier than CF nylon; abrasive → proper nozzle/drive gears needed.
  21. Nylon + polyester blends: mostly C tier because they combine weaknesses.
  22. PC: very tough/stiff and glass-like sheen; moisture sensitive; prints hot/slow; can be overkill.
  23. CF-PC: extreme stiffness but can overload printers; limited usefulness vs other composites.
  24. PMMA/Acrylic: extremely clear/gorgeous; poor adhesion and brittle; high failure risk unless conditions are controlled.
  25. PC-PBT: polycarbonate alloy; easier printing, low warping, better surface quality; more “Arctic” durable in cold; recommended.
  26. PLA-chocolate biopolymer gag: fictional/disqualified edible thermoplastic referenced as “candlelight cocoa cores.”
  27. TPU: easy when dry, strong layer adhesion, shatter-resistant, tough—best for combat/tactical gear; cons: water absorption and “sticky” behavior; durometer matters.
  28. TPE: unpredictable extrusion due to compression; print appearance often poor; styled as F.
  29. SEBS: flexible/stretchy/smooth printing but hygroscopic, smelly, and low-temp softening risk; rated A.
  30. PP: rugged and low density but terrible bed adhesion/curling/support removal; rated F.
  31. Glass-filled PP (GFPP): tougher all-weather; harder to print; direct drive + enclosure + hardened nozzle implied; rated B.
  32. OBC: semi-flexible PP-like but near-impossible bed adhesion; expensive; C/S varies by stability claims, but largely C.
  33. HDPE: worst overall—warps and delaminates; only for purging.
  34. POM/Delrin (“Palm” in transcript): almost zero bed adhesion; layers split; toxic decomposition risk if too hot; rated F.
  35. PVDF: strong chemical resistance; decomposes into toxic chemicals if overheated; rated F.
  36. PEEK/PEAK (“Peak”): strong/chemical resistant but expensive and needs extreme temps/chamber; placed C due to impracticality.
  37. PEKK / PEC: easier than Peak while still strong; placed A (PEC) or A-ish depending; best value depends on printer capability.
  38. PPS: chemical champion; expensive; rated C.
  39. PSU/PPSU: heat resistant and chemically tolerant; interesting but generally not the main value pick; placements vary.
  40. Carbon/glass super-polymer composites: require expensive nozzles/printers due to stiffness/roughness; category C.
  41. Steel bed coatings - Spring steel bed “gets its time to shine.” - PEI/Ulm: Ultem-like coatings require extreme printer setup and special beds; rated S? (ULM 1010 in F if wrong grade; ULM 985 in A tier).
  42. TPI / Kapton: extremely heat-proof but requires impossible printer temps/chamber; rated F.

Pros/cons of the “tier list” format itself (overall user experience)

  • Pros: Quick decision support, practical warnings (drying, warping, supports), and concrete “which filament to choose” guidance.
  • Cons: Opinionated and highly dependent on printer type/setup; some ratings include “grain of salt” caveats for flexibles and edge cases.

Overall verdict / recommendation

  • For a safe default for most makers, the video’s guidance is:
    • Start with PLA / PETG / PCTG depending on what you need (ease vs durability vs print speed).
    • For functional prototypes, CFPG and PCTG are highlighted as standout “do almost everything” choices.
    • For tough flexible parts, TPU is the main recommendation (choose the right durometer and dry properly).
  • Avoid F-tier materials unless you have a specific use case and correct printer capabilities—especially for moisture/warping extremes and toxicity risk.

Speaker notes / multiple viewpoints

  • Subtitles appear to come from one primary speaker (voidstar lab / Zack Freedman style narration).
  • There are no clearly distinct multiple speakers contributing different filament opinions.
  • Only “different viewpoint” references include:
    • mentions of donors/Discord (e.g., Ren’s old PCL sample) as example evidence
  • Overall, it’s mostly a single narrator’s consistent methodology and opinions.

Original video